Spyderco sharpness.

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Nov 22, 2011
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I'm good at sharpening knives. I can bring a dull edge back to razor w/Arkansas stone and strop. I learned how on my own w/trial and error so don't know a great deal about how edges differ and which angles and grinds are better. I have a great collection w/all of the usual suspects, (Benchmade, Spyderco, Lone Wolf, Strider, Hinderer, ZT, Boker, Victorinox, Buck). All of the makers I listed make good knives, and all come sharp out of the box. I have noticed that Spyderco is consistently sharper than the others, they are really really sharp. I can get any of those knives almost there, paper shreading hair popping, but they are never quite as sharp as the Spyderco. They are the same steel, so what's the deal, is it the angle or what?
 
It's all about the edge angle and how steep spyderco grinds their secondary bevel.
I just wish other companies would do the same.
I too learned to sharpen (free-hand) over years of trial and error, but sharpening systems like the edge pro, wicked edge, and sharpmaker can all help to reprofile blades and create a steeper bevel more accurately.
I own a sharpmaker, but stick with free-hand because it requires more attention and has become a stress-relieving process for me.
 
Out of all the production knives I've had over the years, 2 companies really shine in regards to out-of-the-box level of sharpness: Spyderco and Emerson.

I recently bought a NIB 440V Chinook from a fellow forum member, and I have to say, for a 10 year old knife, I couldn't believe how sharp the damn thing was. It whittled grocery receipt paper with ease. Gotta love hollow grinds on thick-stock blades. :thumbup: Just goes to show how Spyderco has always paid close attention to bevel geometry.

Benchmades have always had mediocre sharpness right out of the box, even on their limited runs (which I thought got a little 'extra attention' at the factory?). Not really a problem as the knives hit the sharpening stones to get them popping hairs, but still. For a company that prides itself on "quality," I find their quality in regards to bevel geometry kinda sucks. The few Kershaws I had were very sharp out of the box, but I don't buy them anymore because of the extremely-touchy company rep that haunts these boards. :)
 
Hey Joe,
can you clarify me a point??
I can get any of those knives almost there, paper shreading hair popping, but they are never quite as sharp as the Spyderco.
Do you mean even when you sharpen? or only out of the box??
thank you.
Mateo
 
It's all about the edge angle and how steep spyderco grinds their secondary bevel.
I just wish other companies would do the same.
I too learned to sharpen (free-hand) over years of trial and error, but sharpening systems like the edge pro, wicked edge, and sharpmaker can all help to reprofile blades and create a steeper bevel more accurately.
I own a sharpmaker, but stick with free-hand because it requires more attention and has become a stress-relieving process for me.
I got a Sharpmaker as well. It works well to touch up a blade that's not too far gone, I haven't had good results trying to use it on really damaged edges, for that I use a stone. I'd like to get a WEPS but I can't bring myself to spend that much money when I can do a good job w/out it. I figure I could buy a new rifle for a little more than the cost of a WEPS. I want to get a M&P 15-22 or CMMG .22 Upper which both can be had for $400. The price of Ammo is killing me! My wife's grandmother passed a couple years ago. We recently cleaned her attic and found 15,000 .22LR, a coupel thousand 30-06, (some sealed in US Army ammo cans), 25 Boxes of match grade Winchester 30-06 and boxes and boxes of shotgun shells, I don't even have a 30-06 rifle, always wanted a M1Garand but too expensive. I need one of those .22 LR conversions for Glock pistol too, I think they'll pay for themselves in a year, can't find one, 10-12 month backorder on the one I want, Advantage Arms LE 23 or 27.
 
Hey Joe,
can you clarify me a point??

Do you mean even when you sharpen? or only out of the box??
thank you.
Mateo
After I sharpen, I get them really close, but Syderco still has a better edge. Out of the box I would say the Now out of Bus. Lone Wolf Knives were second.
 
Spyderco & Emerson temper their blades in virgin unicorn pee. The +1 to Enchant allows them to whittle hairs off a frog's butt.

Seriously though, it's the edge angle. Spyderco's factory edges are quite acute at 15-20 degrees per side, and Emersons are even more so, with their chisel grinds.
 
Out of all the production knives I've had over the years, 2 companies really shine in regards to out-of-the-box level of sharpness: Spyderco and Emerson.

I recently bought a NIB 440V Chinook from a fellow forum member, and I have to say, for a 10 year old knife, I couldn't believe how sharp the damn thing was. It whittled grocery receipt paper with ease. Gotta love hollow grinds on thick-stock blades. :thumbup: Just goes to show how Spyderco has always paid close attention to bevel geometry.

Benchmades have always had mediocre sharpness right out of the box, even on their limited runs (which I thought got a little 'extra attention' at the factory?). Not really a problem as the knives hit the sharpening stones to get them popping hairs, but still. For a company that prides itself on "quality," I find their quality in regards to bevel geometry kinda sucks. The few Kershaws I had were very sharp out of the box, but I don't buy them anymore because of the extremely-touchy company rep that haunts these boards. :)
My ZT 0561 get's really sharp from stropping, it came super sharp new, I have an 0560 but bought it used. They both have great edges, but again not quite as good as my Para 2. I have only 1 Emerson, the Karambit, I haven't played w/that one too much yet it's still pretty new. That's also a knife for a very specific job, which I hope I never need it for, but I'm confident that even if it's not the sharpest, it's gonna do it's job real well.
 
Practice practice practice. With the right tools and and a steady hand I think you'll find spyderco's out of box sharpness is just the beginning. Personally, I've never met a factory edge I couldn't improve on, spyderco included. The first thing i do with a new knife is put my own edge on it. I sharpen freehand so I never really know exact angles, but as others have said, edge geometry plays a big role. I almost always thin out the factory bevel, how much depends on the steel. S30V I try to keep right around the 30° inclusive mark. With super steels like cpm-m4, m390, and cts-204p I shoot for around 25° inclusive and sometimes add a 30° microbevel. My addition of a microbevel however is not necessarily for added edge strength, it's purpose is to allow me to mirror polish the main edge bevel (because I like how it looks...) but still have a toothier edge by way of a microbevel. Mirror polished edges look pretty, and push cut like the dickens, but for most cutting, I find a coarser edge just flat out cuts better. That may also be part of what you're seeing with the spyderco factory edges, they are quite sharp, but also quite coarse, which makes them excellent cutters.
 
Most of my knife collection are Spydies, and I have not seen one decent edge (in my eyes) on a new production knife. Not that it matters to me, as I sharpen myself before using anyways...but I think my standards are too high.

Joe, I would chill on the WEPS for now if you are already good at freehanding -- maybe just look into some better whetstones that will cut the newer super steels much quicker and easier.
 
From the man himself, Spyderco puts a 30-40 degree edge on their knives from the factory. One of the mods in the Kershaw subforum here had mentioned Zero Tolerance knives are sharpened to 20-22 degrees per side. There was a post on the Benchmade forum where one Benchmade staff mentioned they target between 22-30 degrees (didn't specify inclusive or per-side, although I'd guess he meant per-side).

Spyderco does 15~ degrees each side for most of their knives. If you see the sharpmaker video's, Sal speaks about setting the backbevel to 15 degrees each side and for the cutting edge creating a microbevel for 20 degrees on the each side but the best in durability, edge retention, and lessening the amount of steel removed. Iirc he said they target 17 degrees per side to make it easier to get it to 15 degrees.

My ZT561 was sharpened to 26 one side 23 the other degrees. The edge was over all inconsistent, almost as if it was sharpened by an amateur.

Lastly the other thing to know is Spyderco may be using higher rpm belts to help create a fine edge with low grit. Similar to what I noticed on my ZT's edge, the edge it self was very very sharp under the microscope.
 
I think all the Spyderco's I have received have been even steeper than 15* degrees per side. They seem more like 13*. I say that because at the 30* sharpmaker setting I am never really hitting the entire bevel. Spyderco's are almost always sharp out of the box. But like mkjellgren, I can always improve on a factory edge. It just takes practice :thumbup:.
 
With one exception (the otherwise awesome Volloton fighter) Spydercos seem to have great sharp edges. Kershaw has done well too, and actually except for a machete (by design not intended to be thin edge) Cold Steel does also. CRKT edges are generally very dull, the only exception being the ripple knives which I believe Ken Onion insists on additional QC for.

If you have damaged edges or want to reprofile then spyderco has diamond rods for the sharp maker, using the ceramics would probably take forever.
 
I've found the same thing. I've sharpened mostly Benchmade and Kershaw with a DMT Aligner.

I picked up an Endura 4 FFG with the VG-10 blade.

I sharpened it as usual. It's the first knife I sliced my thumb on while I was wiping oil on it after sharpening. It was so sharp it sliced through the paper towels and into my thumb before I knew it. It only stung because of the oil.

So I agree with the OP.
 
Most of my knife collection are Spydies, and I have not seen one decent edge (in my eyes) on a new production knife. Not that it matters to me, as I sharpen myself before using anyways...but I think my standards are too high.

Joe, I would chill on the WEPS for now if you are already good at freehanding -- maybe just look into some better whetstones that will cut the newer super steels much quicker and easier.
Yea, no can spend the $$$. It's maybe faster, and maybe sharper than I can do, I don't know I've never seen a knife sharpened on one. I've seen them do the mirror edge which is cool. I got My Strider AR mirror shined but I strop it a lot, I just sit and semi watch tv and strop on my ottoman, I was kind of obsessed until I got it down.
 
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