Spyderco StriBenza (AKA Frankensage)

Shmackey

Shmackey

Joined
May 5, 2000
Messages
1,478
One side Sage 1, one side Sage 2. All stainless hardware satin finished. Pivot contact parts hand polished for smoothiliciousness. Sharp areas (Spyder hole, spine) lightly relieved.

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Nice work, and great photography. You got some really nice shots of the carbon fiber:thumbup:

I bet that sucker feels like buttered glass on the opening. . .
 
Curious, what exactly did you hand polish? The washers?

And what did you use exactly? High grit sandpaper?
 
D1omedes said:
Curious, what exactly did you hand polish? The washers?

And what did you use exactly? High grit sandpaper?
Click to expand...

For the smoothiliciousness? I polished the PB washers as well as the areas on the blade and the scales where they contact. I used 2000- and 6000-grit polishing tape.

I did the satin finish on the stainless parts (spacers, screws, clip, scale liner) with 600-grit paper and emery cloth.
 
Looks great, just a quick question. I disassembled my Sage 2, and when reassembling it, I found that I couldn't tighten the pivot screws completely tightly without completely locking the blade from moving. So I end up having to loosen one of the pivots to allow the blade to open and close once more. Unfortunately, after a little use, the blade ends up uncentered and looser. How did you get around this problem? Am I doing something wrong on the reassembly? I've tried Teflon tape, but it continued to loosen. I didn't want to loctite anything until I know I assembled it correctly.

I also have a Sage 1, and was thinking about crossing them too. But not before I resolve this problem with my sage 2.
 
Iris223 said:
Looks great, just a quick question. I disassembled my Sage 2, and when reassembling it, I found that I couldn't tighten the pivot screws completely tightly without completely locking the blade from moving. So I end up having to loosen one of the pivots to allow the blade to open and close once more. Unfortunately, after a little use, the blade ends up uncentered and looser. How did you get around this problem? Am I doing something wrong on the reassembly? I've tried Teflon tape, but it continued to loosen. I didn't want to loctite anything until I know I assembled it correctly.

I also have a Sage 1, and was thinking about crossing them too. But not before I resolve this problem with my sage 2.
Click to expand...

I noticed this too--and interestingly, it happens with the Frankensage in the photo, but not its reverse-image evil twin. I think the tolerances are a little wider than one might hope, but that just means that you do want to use some blue Loctite on the pivot screws. To get the blade centered correctly and get the tension how you want it, adjust both pivot screws rather than cranking one all the way down and then adjusting only the other one.

If you're doing all that anyway, you might as well polish the washers and the areas they contact--but only with extremely fine polishing equipment--so opening and closing will be as smooth as possible.
 
Shmackey said:
For the smoothiliciousness? I polished the PB washers as well as the areas on the blade and the scales where they contact. I used 2000- and 6000-grit polishing tape.

I did the satin finish on the stainless parts (spacers, screws, clip, scale liner) with 600-grit paper and emery cloth.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that.

Some more questions ... :)

Where did you get the polishing tape and emery cloth? Does the tape fit on a belt sander or did you do everything by hand?
 
D1omedes said:
Thanks for that.

Some more questions ... :)

Where did you get the polishing tape and emery cloth? Does the tape fit on a belt sander or did you do everything by hand?
Click to expand...

The polishing tape is from my EdgePro kit. I'm sure Lee Valley sells something similar and calls it "pressure-sensitive adhesive."

The emery cloth and 600-grit black sandpaper are from the hardware store.

Everything was done by hand. You could probably do the satin finish on the stainless parts with a belt sander or Dremel or something, but the whole thing took less than 10 minutes by hand. I would not recommend automating the polishing of the pivot contact areas, as you really don't want to remove bunches of metal--just get it shiny and flat.
 
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