Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpmaker - Need Advice

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maury

Joined
Sep 24, 2000
Messages
606
I've had the set for several months and at this point I can get a good utility edge on my blades, but that "scarry sharp" edge that I have seen discussed here has so far just hasen't apprared. I have followed the video directions, ('least I tried!), tried working standing up so I could follow the blade and keep it verticle, and in general invested quite a few hours at this. Part serated blades in particular seem to be particularly frustrating. :mad:

Any tips? :confused: Advice most appreciated!
 
If the blade bevel on the knife you are sharpening doesn't match one of the two preset angles on the Sharpmaker, it can take you a long time to set the correct bevel. Try marking the bevel with a magic marker and then sharpening for a while. See if you are really sharpening the edge of the blade or working on the shoulder of the bevel.
 
THE KEY to using the Sharpmaker successfully is to get the bevel on the blade (as stated by JMKnife) to match the angles on the Sharpmaker. We suggest using something OTHER THAN the Sharpmaker for that because the S/M simply won't remove enough steel quick enough. Then, once you get the bevels matched, the S/M will do the trick. Think of the S/M as a finishing tool, not a profiling tool.
 
I had the same problem until I really DEDICATED myself to raising a burr. I tried the video method with varying results. I had "thought" I felt a burr, but was never quite sure. Let me tell you, when you form a burr, it is easy and unmistakeable to tell. I started with a BM auto with 154-cm steel, and stroked on the same side ( approx. 80 strokes) with the grey stones until I felt a major burr. I then switched to the other side for approx 10 strokes, and the burr was now formed on the other side. This is where I began alternating strokes and eventually finished off with the white stones. That knife would cut through a piece of resume' paper with just the weight of the knife pushing down! I then used the knife for various things, trying to ensure that I had not put a fragile "wire edge" on the knife. After about two days of hard use, it was still hair poppin'. Hope this helps.
 
trying to ensure that I had not put a fragile "wire edge" on the knife.
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The easiest way to do this is to make a couple of strokes at a slightly larger angle on the S/M. And, it you want to take it to "the next level", strop it.
 
One other thing to be aware of is not to use too much pressure when honing. The tendency is to bear down on the rods and my understanding is you can actually bend the edge away from the cutting surface if you use too much pressure. I particularly try to be aware of this on the finer grits. Fantastic tool once you get the hang of it!
 
I have found that very thin edges can be deformed by the high contact pressure of the corners. It happens with softer steels on very thinly ground knives. I can sharpen them fine on a bench stone, but use the same force on a surface about 6 times wider (2-2.5" wide bench stones). Try using very light strokes, even on the flats, after honing for a while to make sure the edge is sharp. Also make sure the stones are clean. If they are clogged, they wont cut the steel, but will still apply pressure. I have to clamp mine to a table and use both hands on the knife to be sure my angle is the same on both sides. Using just one hand, my angles are slightly off, and one stone may not actually be hitting the edge. 100 grit wet/dry sandpaper works well if you use binder clips to hold it to the rod flats. This is handy if you dont have any course stones to reprofile. Try using some water on the paper, and be sure to clean out the grit that comes off the paper. Use the 15 degree setting for reprofiling, and maybe polish to 220 or 320 before moving to the stones at 20 degrees. The jump from 100 grit to the stones may be a bit much. Good luck.
 
Boy, I came to the board just now because I got my Sharpmaker from the magic brown truck of joy tonight and have been having a tough time on it. I pressume it's gonna take a little time to get the hang of it.

My blades feel good coming off the grey stones, as good as I have ever sharpened a knife . Great I thought, "I've got two more steps to really razor this thing up!" No dice, the blades felt DULLER than before they went on the whites.

I was thinking of taking my favorite knives to one of the guys in my archery club. Through conversations in the past he led me to belive he could reprofile knives.

I just got my new Camillus Heat the other day, we'll see how I do touching it up after working the edge for a few days.
 
I pressume it's gonna take a little time to get the hang of it.
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That depends on how good your sharpening skills are already. If you understand the basics of using benchstones, it will take you about 5 minutes to figure it out.

My blades feel good coming off the grey stones, as good as I have ever sharpened a knife . Great I thought, "I've got two more steps to really razor this thing up!" No dice, the blades felt DULLER than before they went on the whites.
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I'm guessing this is due to one of two reasons. First, it is possible that you did not keep the same angle that you used on the medium stones. It is important that each stroke be consistent. Second, sometimes the fine stones make an edge "feel" duller because the edge on the medium stones is not polished - it has tiny jagged edges on it - so it might feel sharper, and will even cut better in some applications.

Keep practicing. The more use use the S/M one the same knife, the better it gets (assuming that you have matched the bevel to the S/M's angle). If you haven't, get out one of your benchstones and put the correct back bevel on the edge first.
 
maury said:
I've had the set for several months and at this point I can get a good utility edge on my blades, but that "scarry sharp" edge that I have seen discussed here has so far just hasen't apprared. I have followed the video directions, ('least I tried!), tried working standing up so I could follow the blade and keep it verticle, and in general invested quite a few hours at this. Part serated blades in particular seem to be particularly frustrating. :mad:

Any tips? :confused: Advice most appreciated!
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Murray-

You can't beat the trick of using a black Sharpie magic marker to blacken the edge and then look at it to see where your sharpening is occurring. It helped me a bunch. I realized then that I wasn't sharpening I was reprofiling (very sloooooowly).

I don't alternate the strokes on my Sharpmaker but sharpen on one side until I feel a burr. Forget about the 20 strokes count, you sharpen until you get a burr. Then I do the other edge until I feel the burr. Then I very lightly run the edge on a hone. But if you aren't hitting the micro-edge you will have a long hard job when you sharpen.
 
All of what is being said it very accurate, one of best methods to see if the profile matches up is the "marker technique". If the problem is the profile something more close will be the way to go. If the problem isnt the profile you might be bearing down on it too much.
 
Thanks for all the advice. I tried using a marker on the edge of the blade - a really great tip!

I was really suprised at how much or the marker ink did not come off with repeated passes on the stones Some serious reprofiling with a course hone and I was able to get a much sharper edge.

Also noted the advice about using less pressure: that seemed to help too.

On the down side: Regretably, I still can't get that "hair popping" edge.

Will keep at it.
 
On the down side: Regretably, I still can't get that "hair popping" edge.
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That's not likely to happen with the S/M alone, even with the ultra fine stones. You'll need a good strop.
 
Sometimes you need to "re-profile" the factory edge......I find that the fastest way to do that with the Sharpmaker, is to use the optional "diamond hone" rods that you can buy.

Works really well
 
rayfloro said:
Sometimes you need to "re-profile" the factory edge......I find that the fastest way to do that with the Sharpmaker, is to use the optional "diamond hone" rods that you can buy.

Works really well
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The 2" x 6" DMT diamond whetstone in extra course is also a great tool if you have to reprofile. Just tape the blade so you don't scratch it. You have to be careful because you remove lots of steel very fast.

http://www.dmtsharp.com/general/basicsharp.htm

I cheat and put a little alligator clip on the spine of my knife when I reprofile. It gives me about a 10 degree angle and helps me hold a constant edge. The constant edge is not a critical on the primary bevel and it is the micro-bevel which is the part of the blade that does most of the cutting.
 
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