Spyderco's VG-10, among my favorite steels!

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Nikkogi

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Like many of you, I own a multitude of different knives with blade steels from S30v to ZDP-189 to D2 and so fourth. However, the "better" the steel is the usually harder to sharpen. With VG-10 you have a steel that is extremely easy to sharpen on the sharpmaker, it is pretty rust resistant, and it holds a fine working edge for a reasonably long time. Are there any other knife companies that use VG-10? I feel like SOG uses it in a knife that I can't recall at the moment!
 
My SOG Vulcan was VG-10 (Good knife, but traded it)
And yea, the Spyderco Endura 4 has some VG-10 that just keeps going and going.
 
I'm a big fan of vg10 myself. I really appreciate the rust resistance and how long it can hold an edge.
 
singularity35 said:
Holding a hair whittling edge: ZDP>VG-10>S30V

Working edge: ZDP>S30V>VG-10
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Ah, ok, so singularity35, you find a difference in edge holding based upon the steel losing its factory (or better-than-factory) "razor" edge as per Dao.Hung_105's original question, and the edge further losing its basic "working edge". Interesting. When i think of the knives in all 3 steels that i have that seem to have the most similar geometry, say the Lum Chinese in VG-10, ZDP-189, and the closest thing to that geometry i have in S30V being probably the Sage, or maybe a Benchmade Lum DejaVoo, the S30V seems to require more frequent sharpening in both cases - in other words, it seems to lose its astonishing immediate post-sharpening danger first, and also needs more frequent attention during protracted cutting projects, or after fewer days of "normal" daily use. But to be fair, does anyone have the same model in all three steels in order to give some control to our experiment? Of course the other major flaw to my observation is that it's completely subjective and based on my admittedly lousy memory. If someone had the same knife in all 3 steels and grinds - i can't think right off hand what that might be - this could be a really interesting comparison!
 
In my experience, though not with the same blade grinds, is that s30v holds a good working edge at least twice as long as vg10, but I want to say even more than that. However my experience is VERY unscientific. Specifically it would be comparing the S30V Native, with the Centofante 4's vg10. Both are hollow ground, but the centofante is thinner behind the edge. Also my Native came from the factory around 30 degrees inclusive edge, the Centofante came around 40 degrees inclusive. And this comparison took place doing light duty EDC at my work and not seeing any regular, tough work.
 
hara-kiri-yogi said:
Ah, ok, so singularity35, you find a difference in edge holding based upon the steel losing its factory (or better-than-factory) "razor" edge as per Dao.Hung_105's original question, and the edge further losing its basic "working edge". Interesting. When i think of the knives in all 3 steels that i have that seem to have the most similar geometry, say the Lum Chinese in VG-10, ZDP-189, and the closest thing to that geometry i have in S30V being probably the Sage, or maybe a Benchmade Lum DejaVoo, the S30V seems to require more frequent sharpening in both cases - in other words, it seems to lose its astonishing immediate post-sharpening danger first, and also needs more frequent attention during protracted cutting projects, or after fewer days of "normal" daily use. But to be fair, does anyone have the same model in all three steels in order to give some control to our experiment? Of course the other major flaw to my observation is that it's completely subjective and based on my admittedly lousy memory. If someone had the same knife in all 3 steels and grinds - i can't think right off hand what that might be - this could be a really interesting comparison!
Click to expand...

I'm with goodeyesniper on this one is saying that my experience is very unscientific and my opinion is based only on my experience in using different knives with those steels. One might also say that instead of the steels being compared, that it was the knives themselves and their blade geometry.

Yes, I do make a difference in how my knives hold that hair whittling edge(which I like) and the working edge(which is actually what matters when doing work).
 
singularity35 said:
I'm with goodeyesniper on this one is saying that my experience is very unscientific and my opinion is based only on my experience in using different knives with those steels. One might also say that instead of the steels being compared, that it was the knives themselves and their blade geometry.

Yes, I do make a difference in how my knives hold that hair whittling edge(which I like) and the working edge(which is actually what matters when doing work).
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some how I do agree with you. I just can't use a working edge. My knives are always hair shaving sharp and are at about 8-10 degree per side. BTW by saying working edge you guys mean a cutting edge without shaving right?
 
Dao.Hung_105 said:
some how I do agree with you. I just can't use a working edge. My knives are always hair shaving sharp and are at about 8-10 degree per side. BTW by saying working edge you guys mean a cutting edge without shaving right?
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Yep, a working edge is a very usable edge that may shave or may not but will cut the material you are working with adequately.

By the way, when I sharpen my knives, I am not content with merely hair shaving. I stop when my knife whittles free hanging hair. My knives need to be at least this sharp when before I stop. If I use them and they get duller they get sharpened when I get home, but I won't stop using a knife just because it no longer shaves.

[youtube]K_3267AMMpU&NR[/youtube]
 
I agree ... Seki VG-10 I really seem to be able to get some of my best (sharpest) edges on, and I've tried a lot of steels.
 
that's scary sharp...
My knives have never been that sharp before, I can still put my thumb on the edge after sharpen, just don't drag it...
what's the angle on your knife? and what is the system d you use to sharpen your knife please?
BTW is that a paramill?
 
Dao.Hung_105 said:
that's scary sharp...
My knives have never been that sharp before, I can still put my thumb on the edge after sharpen, just don't drag it...
what's the angle on your knife? and what is the system d you use to sharpen your knife please?
BTW is that a paramill?
Click to expand...

That's a Ti millie BTW, it's at 36 degrees inclusive and I rebeveled that on the Edge Pro up to 3000 grit polish tape and stropped on balsa wood with diamond paste.

It's not hard to get hair whittling sharp on the sharpmaker when your bevel angles match or are lower than the pre-set angles. For instance, I can get a factory edge hair whittling on the 40 degrees slots on the sharpmaker. It just takes some patience and a light touch.
 
singularity35 said:
Yep, a working edge is a very usable edge that may shave or may not but will cut the material you are working with adequately.

By the way, when I sharpen my knives, I am not content with merely hair shaving. I stop when my knife whittles free hanging hair. My knives need to be at least this sharp when before I stop. If I use them and they get duller they get sharpened when I get home, but I won't stop using a knife just because it no longer shaves.
Click to expand...

Do you do free hand sharpening on water stones (Japanese style), or guided systems with diamond or ceramics? Do you strop your blades after sharpening? I never strop hunting/utility knives, they seem to lose the edge a whole lot faster than blades finished only on stones.
 
singularity35 said:
That's a Ti millie BTW, it's at 36 degrees inclusive and I rebeveled that on the Edge Pro up to 3000 grit polish tape and stropped on balsa wood with diamond paste.

It's not hard to get hair whittling sharp on the sharpmaker when your bevel angles match or are lower than the pre-set angles. For instance, I can get a factory edge hair whittling on the 40 degrees slots on the sharpmaker. It just takes some patience and a light touch.
Click to expand...

When the angles don't match on the Sharpmaker, I use the DMT Aligner systems with corase diamonds, it takes me 5 minutes to correct the angles even on ZDP-189 blades. Then I finish the edge on the Sharpmaker's white rods. That's all is need to get scary sharp.
 
In my experience VG-10 does not hold an edge very long at all. VG-10<154CM<S30V I don't like VG-10 all that much but it is easy to sharpen. It doesn't chip out the way that S30V does so I use my Delicas a lot for Gardening duty. YMMV
 
singularity35 said:
That's a Ti millie BTW, it's at 36 degrees inclusive and I rebeveled that on the Edge Pro up to 3000 grit polish tape and stropped on balsa wood with diamond paste.

It's not hard to get hair whittling sharp on the sharpmaker when your bevel angles match or are lower than the pre-set angles. For instance, I can get a factory edge hair whittling on the 40 degrees slots on the sharpmaker. It just takes some patience and a light touch.
Click to expand...

I sharpened my knife down to 9 degree per side but it just can't whittle free hanging hair like yours... don't know why
Or maybe my hair is just too thin :P
 
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