I appreciate the input fellows. Leaves me still undecided. I touched up the blades on about six small traditionals this afternoon using the DMT diafold and thought I could probably have done the job a good bit quicker using a Sharpmaker. Is the ease and time saved worth the price of admission? That is the question.
If the SM is used in its
ideal capacity, which is with maybe 3-5 passes per side to bring back a crisp apex, any touchup jobs using it won't take more than a couple minutes per blade, or less. This is essentially true with most any decent hone used for touching up, applied under the same criteria.
In terms of real grinding capacity, the SM's standard ceramic rods will never work as quickly as something like a diamond hone. This is just due to the difference in cutting speed of the two abrasive types at their rated grit. So, if an edge is substantially dull, it'll take much, much longer to correct on the SM's ceramic rods than it will if using something like a diamond hone. Even a 1200-grit (EF) DMT would work faster by comparison. A 'Fine' DMT Diafold (600) is a pretty handy tool for doing things like rebevelling the small, thin blades on traditional knives and can do that job pretty fast. And then the SM's ceramic rods are very good at refining and cleaning up the edge after the DMT. The SM is excellent for applying a 'barely there', almost invisible, microbevel atop the coarser apex created on the diamond hone. This is how I use my SM to its best, with my traditional pocketknife blades (pic added for selfish embellishment, below

). I use the corners of the triangular rods to do that, BTW.
Even at it's limited grinding capacity, the thing that makes the SM still worth it for many touchup jobs is the simplicity of the V-crock setup. Just that little bit of extra assist with angle control can make a touchup task almost intuitively simple.
I'd also say that the SM isn't a tool just for beginners. Nice thing about learning freehand sharpening is, literally any tool in practiced hands can then become that much easier and better at its designed job. Freehand is all about the right touch applied, i.e., appropriate use of pressure and protecting the apex from rounding. So that same 'expert' touch will make any tool work better, whether it was made to be 'simple' or not.