Recommendation? spydy mule build - micromelt vs 20cv vs rwl34?

D

dirc

Joined
Jan 31, 2018
Messages
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I've been a long time reader, but only recently setup an account & posted.

Thanks to your posts, I've re-acquired my fixed blade interest. (Being Canadian, I'd rather switch to that if they rule something that auto-opens or flips open too easy in gravity a crime, which is utterly insane)... fixed blades remain legal :) (and utterly the most reliable setup) I'm planning to build my own horizontal belt sheath

spydy mules seem an amazing value, each of the 3 blade steels listed are only $70usd

I've read extensively on steels, and I'm still torn...

I want '3v' style toughness, and reasonable stainless qualities but I'm not afraid of oiling maintenance.

the mules are all 3mm, and I'm planning on using some homegrown american hornbeam (aka ironwood) scales... should be fun

micromelt PD#1 is the lowest chrome at just under 8% (it's kind of like an improved D2 or 53 from what I've read)
20cv is highest at 20% (but basically a copy/similar composition to m390)
and the rwl34 is in the middle at 14% (basically a copy/similar composition/improvement to ats34)

normally, the higher the chrome content, the better stainless quality... but lower overall toughness normally results

I don't know if that is really the case with these new'ish (to me) super steels

I hear ZT is switching almost entirely to 20cv, which is a strong endorsement...
but the others are strong also

which would you most trust? :) I don't plan on using it to baton wood of course, but I just like to not worry about chipouts or any other failures. I do want to be able to use it for anything reasonable however, and not worry


HELP please :D
 
Last edited:
thought I should add the whole %'s (from their website)

micro-melt PD#1's unique alloy composition includes: 1.1% Carbon, 7.75% Chromium, 1.2% Silicon, 1.6% Molybdenum, 1.1% Tungsten, 0.25% Manganese, and 2.35% Vanadium.

CPM 20CV's alloy composition is as follows: Carbon: 1.90%, Manganese: 0.30%, Silicon: 0.30%, Chromium: 20.0%, Tungsten: 0.60%, Molybdenum: 1.00%, and Vanadium: 4.00%

RWL 34's alloy composition is as follows: Carbon - 1.05%, Manganese - 0.50%, Silicon - 0.50%, Chromium - 14.0%, Molybdenum - 4.00%, Vanadium - 0.20%.
 
Yes, PD#1 is the toughest. It's also more wear resistant than RWL 34/CPM 154/154cm. 20CV is the most wear resistant and the most resistant to corrosion of these 3 but IMO not up to 440C levels ( a long time reference standard for stainless cutlery steels). The PD#1 also has the greatest edge stability which makes it most suitable for thinner edges and higher hardness but it nor the others are up to say W2, 52100, or O1 edge stability levels. All steels are compromises including these three. When selecting you look for the balance of attributes that suits your needs best.

I pick the PD#1. Corrosion resistance isn't something I value ( even though PD#1 isn't all that bad. It's better than 1095, O1, etc. ) If I was going to spend a lot of time in and around saltwater I wouldn't pick any of the three instead I'd go with H1. 20CV despite 20% chrome isn't the most corrosion resistant stainless around because most of the chrome is locked up in carbides for wear resistance but it still is substantially better than non stainless alloys. RWL 34 is similarly more oriented to abrasion resistance and toughness than corrosion resistance and though it does better than PD#1 it isn't up to 440C levels either.

They are all great steels and I think you can't go wrong with any choice you make. I have these mules myself and am quite happy with them. Welcome to BF.

Joe
 
Depends on what you want to use it for, I guess.

IMO you cant go wrong with either of the excellent steels.

I for one am a big fan of the MicroMelt PD1 Mule.

I use it in the woods. I have D2 and A2 knives and am a big fan of those steels as well. As you mention, MicroMelt is supposed to be even better at some of the D2 properties. No chipping so far. The proverbial hair popping sharp edge and easy to sharpen to boot.

Just have to keep in mind, that itll take on a patina. Its not 'rust proof,' so that has to be taken into consideration depending on purpose.

I use the MicroMelt Mule in the woods and it does stellar work.

5fYTw8A.jpg

4amy5x1.jpg
 
Nice thanks for posting those, I like your custom built linen micarta scales, that seems like a big project on it's own.

I'm hoping the wood scales are a bit easier to build, I hate playing with glue/epoxy/goo in general.
Looks like you customized it to a nice practical setup, I'm not sure if I'll round the back of the handle but I'll test it out.

As for the sharp guard, did you try smoothing it first instead of just removing it? It seems useful as-is but perhaps just needs some non-sharp edges?
 
dirc said:
Nice thanks for posting those, I like your custom built linen micarta scales, that seems like a big project on it's own.

I'm hoping the wood scales are a bit easier to build, I hate playing with glue/epoxy/goo in general.
Looks like you customized it to a nice practical setup, I'm not sure if I'll round the back of the handle but I'll test it out.

As for the sharp guard, did you try smoothing it first instead of just removing it? It seems useful as-is but perhaps just needs some non-sharp edges?
Click to expand...
Na, I chopped off the guard right away, as I wanted most of it gone.

There is still a curved part of the handle there.

The Mule design is immensely useful straight from the factory - to be honest, you dont need to change a thing.

But where is the fun in that!:D

I have other Mules. Some I mod, some I dont.

The PD1 MicroMelt I wanted more compact, as it has a place in the pocket of the smock, that I use in the woods
 
dirc said:
I've been a long time reader, but only recently setup an account & posted.

Thanks to your posts, I've re-acquired my fixed blade interest. (Being Canadian, I'd rather switch to that if they rule something that auto-opens or flips open too easy in gravity a crime, which is utterly insane)... fixed blades remain legal :) (and utterly the most reliable setup) I'm planning to build my own horizontal belt sheath

spydy mules seem an amazing value, each of the 3 blade steels listed are only $70usd

I've read extensively on steels, and I'm still torn...

I want '3v' style toughness, and reasonable stainless qualities but I'm not afraid of oiling maintenance.

the mules are all 3mm, and I'm planning on using some homegrown american hornbeam (aka ironwood) scales... should be fun

micromelt PD#1 is the lowest chrome at just under 8% (it's kind of like an improved D2 or 53 from what I've read)
20cv is highest at 20% (but basically a copy/similar composition to m390)
and the rwl34 is in the middle at 14% (basically a copy/similar composition/improvement to ats34)

normally, the higher the chrome content, the better stainless quality... but lower overall toughness normally results

I don't know if that is really the case with these new'ish (to me) super steels

I hear ZT is switching almost entirely to 20cv, which is a strong endorsement...
but the others are strong also

which would you most trust? :) I don't plan on using it to baton wood of course, but I just like to not worry about chipouts or any other failures. I do want to be able to use it for anything reasonable however, and not worry


HELP please :D
Click to expand...


The toughest of the 3, which requires some but not a lot of maintenance would be PD #1
 
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