sr101 kicking my but

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pete1p

Joined
Jan 13, 2013
Messages
18
I know people have said its and easy steels to sharping but I have been having some trouble with it. Im still pretty new to sharpening and I only have a sharp maker I did however get both the diamond and the UF stones. I did get a cheap norton stone from home depot to do the reprofiling and it worked very well im just not able to get the same edge I get some of my other knifes. Any suggestions because im almost to the point of sending this knife to get sharpened by some one who knows what there doing.
 
Very first thing to determine is what angle the edge is at, even after reprofiling. The Sharpmaker maxes out at 20 degrees per side, and if the existing edge is 22.5 degrees per side (for example) then you're going to spend about a dozen hours grinding steel off with that system before you actually get any "sharpening" done.

Blacken the edge with a marker, give a few strokes on both sides with your sharpener and see if it's hitting down on the edge itself or just removing ink up at the edge shoulder. If it's the former, we can talk further about technique, if it's the latter, you're either going to have to augment your sharpening equipment/methods or have somebody thin that edge down for you so the Sharpmaker can work.
 
What are you trying to do? I keep mine honed to stay utility sharp. Are you trying to reprofile or just keep it sharp? Is it dull or have rolled edges. How sharp do you want it? It is a thick blade and will never be as sharp as a thin blade without a major reprofile. That would remove a great deal of metal.
 
Just as a by-the-way, my favorite cheap gear for sharpening a convex edge is a rubber sanding block with 3M wet/dry paper. Obviously a stationary sander with proper belts (and frequent dunking of your blade in cold water) is king in terms of speed/ease, but it's amazing what results you can get with $5 expended at the hardware store.
 
What angle did you finish up with on the Norton stone? The sharpmaker will touch up either a 30 or 40 degree included angle. The first thing is to run a sharpie along the edge and then take a couple of passes on each side of the sharpmaker. Take a good look to see where you are making contact on the knife edge. This will give you an idea if the angle you put on with the Norton stone is close enough to finish up on the Spyderco sharpmaker. Best of luck.
Ron
 
Like I mentioned in your last thread, finish on the fine side of the Norton hone then strop lightly to remove the burr. It will yield a toothy but razor sharp edge. If you try and use the ceramic stones from your SM it will likely smooth the edge too much causing a dull feeling.
 
I am trying to make it as sharp as I can it does have a rather thick blade (swamp rat rodent 3). I places the norton stone on the sharpmaker on the 40 degree side and used both the coarse and fine side of the stone then checked it with a marker (the edge was set). I then tried use a strop for the rest but my strop skills are not very good it seems I round the edge on my knifes so I moved to my sharpmaker to try to finish the job but it did not work very well.
 
Use just the weight of the blade. It should almost feel like your not even touching the strop. Your burr needs to be at a minimal from the stone though, if you can see it then its too big and a lighter touch on the stone is needed. (See the pattern of using a light touch yet?)

The strop is not what brings you the sharpness it only helps it. Your knife should be shaving sharp off the stone and if not then stropping will NOT help.
 
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