SR101 stripping?

clampdaddy

clampdaddy

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Aug 31, 2013
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Quick question for those that have stripped SR101. Does it have a decarb layer like INFI or once the coating is off is it pretty much a "what you see is what you get" type of deal? I know it isn't as rust resistant as INFI to begin with, and the end goal a nice, even looking patina. Just wasn't sure if doing some more work after the stripping is worth the effort.
 
stripped a chopweiler... older one. No coating under it at all. bare metal. Who knows on the newer ones.
 
I've stripped an AK47 and a Ratweiler and didn't notice any particular decarb layer under the coating, just the roughly finished steel.

What you see is definitely what you get - some tool marks are possible plus visible 'scale' from I guess the heat treat.

I love the character under the coating!

I used a wire wheel to finish the Ratweiler:


I used Pferd non woven hand pads (think Scotch brite) on the AK47 and love the ghetto satin it produced!




Sent from my E6653 using Tapatalk
 
recently stirpped my rodent 6 there was decarb. but I got it back in 2014 or 2013 cant remember newer ones idk
 
SR-101 has decarb too on most coated blades. Sometimes it looks like dcbb, or lighter, or darker, but if it ain't shiny white like platinum or silver after sanding it's suspect. Decarb can give that nice aged look though so it's not all bad, but it doesn't like moisture.

Stripped INFI Gladius for demonstration, see how corrosion dead ends at shiny white. :)
2edbno9.jpg


Dicko said:
I've stripped an AK47 and a Ratweiler and didn't notice any particular decarb layer under the coating, just the roughly finished steel.

What you see is definitely what you get - some tool marks are possible plus visible 'scale' from I guess the heat treat.

I love the character under the coating!

I used a wire wheel to finish the Ratweiler:


I used Pferd non woven hand pads (think Scotch brite) on the AK47 and love the ghetto satin it produced!




Sent from my E6653 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Unless it is just the lighting playing tricks, your color change above the edge where it looks like a gray hamon is the decarb layer transition. It takes a ton of sanding to get rid of it on the whole blade. INFI or sr101 doesn't matter, Gray = decarb and it easily is overlooked. ;) That layer rusts faster than the bare sr 101 will.
 
AZTimT said:
Unless it is just the lighting playing tricks, your color change above the edge where it looks like a gray hamon is the decarb layer transition. It takes a ton of sanding to get rid of it on the whole blade. INFI or sr101 doesn't matter, Gray = decarb and it easily is overlooked. ;) That layer rusts faster than the bare sr 101 will.
Click to expand...

It's possibly the light, in good lighting the whole blades looks a really nice satin with the only grey areas the parts I haven't given my full attention to.

But I haven't gone to town on the decarb, so more than likely have not removed the whole layer.
 
So my next question I guess would be, if the SR101 blade i have coming does end up having a decarb layer, do you think bead blasting to remove it make make the blade even more prone to rusting than the decarb is itself? I've seen posts where folks say that SR101 is similar in composition to bearing steel and in all the equipment I work on, bearings (even the outside parts that don't see any lubrication) don't seem to rust nearly as bad as the rest of the steel parts they are mounted to.
 
Double Cut / bead blast is my least favorite blade finish...may be useful for operators who need strict light discipline, but I don't want it. The micro cuts & divots create more surface area and little niches for rust to get a foothold. More importantly, the little divots make it harder to clean & eradicate the rust when it does come. The closer you can get to mirror polish <with any steel> the harder it makes it for rust to gain & keep a foothold.

Likewise, the "slicker" your finish, the easier it is to take sandpaper and clean off any surface rust. Of course the trade off is that your mirror blade will mar easier <if that sort of thing is important to you>. And the bearings you've observed are close to the ultimate "slickest" steel.

The decarb itself is like a primer providing a medium for paint/epoxy to stick to. Otherwise, the paint would slide right off the satin INFI beneath....just like what you want the rust to do. ;)

Unfortunately, that decarb layer attracts rust as easily as it does paint. You can literally watch your stripped blade rust before your very eyes when you're between the steps of removing the paint and sanding the decarb. I'm amazed with every stripper I do to watch this phenomenon. :eek:
 
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One thing I have noticed after bead blasting a few infi blades is that the condition of your media makes a difference. With brand new media it leaves a slightly rougher finish. Media that has been fairly well pulverized by prior use leaves it fairly slick. Almost like it peens the steel. It leaves it with almost a glow that's hard to explain.
 
All good points Petey. I agree with you on DCBB finishes. Even elmax will start to rust.
 
Dicko said:
I've stripped an AK47 and a Ratweiler and didn't notice any particular decarb layer under the coating, just the roughly finished steel.

What you see is definitely what you get - some tool marks are possible......
Click to expand...

Machine marks don't bother me. I do hate it when it looks like someone took a Dremel tool to them though. I've seen it on other knives, only had it on one of mine.......but it made me want to cry.
 
Dicko- Great job on the Ratweiler and Waki. Love the ripples on the Rat and the lines in the Waki...

Love the differential on your Weiler Rob Stanley..big fan of the honest patina as well:thumbup:


Fist off, I have to state that the OD green coating is a bitch. Thats to say it is not a bitch at all...tough as nails..Lot more work than it looks.

The OD laughed at Citristrip (2hr soak, held on like a fat kid to a cookie) switched to Jasco..over 2hr soak. These products and time frames have been more than enough for other coatings Ive stripped. Black cinkle, came off like a prom dress w/ under a 1 hour bath in Citristrip. Sage, slightly more difficult, Citri/1 hr. The Arctic white was just weird, close to 2 hr soak in Jasco, seemed to re adhere as I was scrapping it clear, ..ultimately it cooperated..All of these were on INFI...the AW was the most tedious...until the OD green...the damn OD green.


Looks like an even coat of decarb, light to dark gray, all over.





Looks to be the same amount and distribution of decarb as on this one. INFI w/ Arctic White.



Going to disengage for tonite. Reinforce and attack again over the weekend. The most violent Ive had to get was Scotch Brite wheels in the Dremel...may have to go a little harder on this one...did I hear wire wheel? Yea,..gonna have to go medieval.
 
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