Sr101 vs 1095?

SR 101, from my use is better in every way. Its tougher, holds an edge longer, has greater ability to take lateral stress and and is much more chip resistant. It is a little bit harder to sharpen though.

The biggest difference is edge retention. SR101 holds an edge much, much longer than ESEE's 1095
 
SR 101, from my use is better in every way. Its tougher, holds an edge longer, has greater ability to take lateral stress and and is much more chip resistant. It is a little bit harder to sharpen though.

The biggest difference is edge retention. SR101 holds an edge much, much longer than ESEE's 1095

I ask because some sykco knives are less expensive than esees (even the esee 3). So naturally I asked myself which steel was better, I assumed sr101, but wasnt sure.
 
ESEE's 1095 is really great steel. Its tough and holds a good edge and I love ESEE knives and use them all the time but SR 101 is just a better steel.

Knives from both companies are great and will serve you well. You really can't go wrong with either. Get whichever knife you like better
 
SR101 is elementally similar to 52100, which is a bearing steel, where 1095 is a spring steel. SR101 will hold an edge for longer on soft material, where 1095 will potentially survive more punishment such as edge impacts on hard materials with less chance of fracturing. I say "potentially" because heat treatment determines how successfully any steel approaches its maximum balance of toughness and strength, and Busse's heat treat is one of the most extensive and effective in the industry at bringing out the very best performance a blade steel has to offer across the board.
 
Ill pick 101, Busse's heat treatment is above excellent.-- 1095 done right, you can get pretty abusive with it. I don't agree with KalEl statement of "much more chip resistant" 101 will look like a serrated edge if ya impact bone, where 1095 will just go more dull than anything, however, for cutting tasks, the Busse 101 will hold its edge several cuts longer, assuming the geometry is pretty even.
 
Ill pick 101, Busse's heat treatment is above excellent.-- 1095 done right, you can get pretty abusive with it. I don't agree with KalEl statement of "much more chip resistant" 101 will look like a serrated edge if ya impact bone, where 1095 will just go more dull than anything, however, for cutting tasks, the Busse 101 will hold its edge several cuts longer, assuming the geometry is pretty even.

SR101 has tended to roll for me as opposed to chipping. The only chipping I've ever had was on the very tip of my Waki when it hit gravel. Other than that I've been really impressed by SR101's toughness. I've never chipped it while doing anything normal even batoning through hard knots.
 
I would really like to see any SR101 that looks "serrated" after hitting bone.....for me, it just chops through it and keeps on chopping.
 
1095? ESEE? How weak and pathetic........SR101? tough steel?? .....whatever....weak and pathetic. Do y'all have any clue what you are talking about as far as heat treatment and edge retention and cutting soft and hard materials and all that nonsense! Why do you bother with such rubbish when all you really need is ......................................................................................................................................................................................................ONE OF THESE!! This my new EDC/camping/zombie slaying/pretty much take on anything you can throw at it knife. it will outperform anything mentioned above, GUARANTEED
tsk__92036.jpg


If anyone attends the next show that I go to, I might let you look at it.......and if you really lucky, I will let you touch it.....................and if you really really really lucky and I feel like being a nice guy I might, I just might let you hold it to feel the perfect balance.......but probably not.
 
1095? ESEE? How weak and pathetic........SR101? tough steel?? .....whatever....weak and pathetic. Do y'all have any clue what you are talking about as far as heat treatment and edge retention and cutting soft and hard materials and all that nonsense! Why do you bother with such rubbish when all you really need is ......................................................................................................................................................................................................ONE OF THESE!! This my new EDC/camping/zombie slaying/pretty much take on anything you can throw at it knife. it will outperform anything mentioned above, GUARANTEED
tsk__92036.jpg


If anyone attends the next show that I go to, I might let you look at it.......and if you really lucky, I will let you touch it.....................and if you really really really lucky and I feel like being a nice guy I might, I just might let you hold it to feel the perfect balance.......but probably not.
Of course there's always a bigger fish. But for us mere mortals, and ESEE or Swamp Rat will have to do. :D
 
I would really like to see any SR101 that looks "serrated" after hitting bone.....for me, it just chops through it and keeps on chopping.

I'd gladly take some pictures, cept id have to sharpen it out again.. don't get me wrong I love 101, I beat the hell out of it all day, different materials have different effects...that same 101 that we love, will crush and chop the piss out of aluminum, hard knot wood, and I've even struck steel-(by accident) amazingly small chip for the strike----and cut soft woods till ya get bored--- but bone literately chews 101 up,..next time ya harvest, say a deer, chop the bone up, and you'll see-- is that to say is bad?-Nope-

Back to the OP, between those 2 steels, I'd for sure stick with the 101, it seems to lead it out in every way
 
I only own the Waki, and the only damage I've seen was on the tip. I stabbed a fence post and hit the metal wire instead of the wood.
Yet, when comparing different steels and companies, it's unfair due to different heat treat process. You'd have to have the same knife, same geometry, and same hardness to really compare them. Or just decide SRKW or ESEE.

I have several Ontario's in 5160 and a custom forged chopper. The Ontario's don't take an edge or hold it when compared to the Bolok. It's an uneven comparison as well, but goes to show the difference in HT.

Do you chop through bone? Need edge retention, or toughness? How the handle fits your hand is important, just as much as the blade geometry. The best knife steel is the best knife for your needs.
 
1095? ESEE? How weak and pathetic........SR101? tough steel?? .....whatever....weak and pathetic. Do y'all have any clue what you are talking about as far as heat treatment and edge retention and cutting soft and hard materials and all that nonsense! Why do you bother with such rubbish when all you really need is ......................................................................................................................................................................................................ONE OF THESE!! This my new EDC/camping/zombie slaying/pretty much take on anything you can throw at it knife. it will outperform anything mentioned above, GUARANTEED
tsk__92036.jpg


If anyone attends the next show that I go to, I might let you look at it.......and if you really lucky, I will let you touch it.....................and if you really really really lucky and I feel like being a nice guy I might, I just might let you hold it to feel the perfect balance.......but probably not.

lol. that thing was my first knife when i was 6. I thought it was the xxxz !
 
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lol. that thing was my first knife when i was 6. I thought it was the ****!
Gentle reminder, this is a family oriented forum, please watch your language.

Cuss in front of my daughter...... you see what I mean. :)
 
I prefer INFI!

infi ftw, oink

+3, INFI is the way to go. (If my choice is between SR-101 and 1095) I use SR-101 for slicing due to it's edge retention but IMO SR-101 is WAY superior to 1095. I have carried 1095 and used it many years and QUIT with me finally buying a Busse Combat. I simply leave the others in a drawer or have sold them. Yes you have some custom folks who can work 1095 ok, but steel of choice, no struggle to make a decision here... 1095 always rolled and frankly became useless, blades bent, rusted like a truck bumper on the gulf coast. I'll say it again, no struggle to make a decision here...
 
Ive been carrying an ESEE3 for EDC for a while now and my conclusions about SR101 vs. 1095 have only been reinforced.

52100 is a better steel than 1095. It does everything better and nothing worse. It can get harder, holds an edge much longer, has the same stain resistance, and is just as tough or tougher than 1095.

Its almost like Elmax and S30V. Elamx is just better no matter what way you look at it but both get the job done.
 
To paraphrase an old saying, "If you have one knife, it's the best there is. If you have two, you're never sure."

Bob Loveless was once asked what he thought of 1095. He replied...:barf: Another highly opinionated knife maker was asked
what he thought of 52100. His reply can't be written here, but it was not complimentary. ;)

IMHO, this topic belongs in the same category as "what's you EDC or what's in your pocket?" It's all a matter of opinion and
we all know what opinions are worth.

Try this. http://zknives.com/knives/articles/knifesteelfaq.shtml
 
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