Stabilize or not

marekz

marekz

Joined
Jun 16, 2008
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It seems over the years stabilizing wood has become the choice for many wood handles. Lets talk about which wood really doesn't need stabilization. I know some feel most burls need to be stabilized.
I have a few woods that I think would work just fine without stabilization
Just off the top of my head. Please add any wood you think would work fine without being stabilized- Marekz
Hond rosewood burl
African blackwood
Walnut
Nargusta burl
Bodark
Bubinga- questionable
Obviously - desert iron wood
Gidgee- basically any desert variety
Ebony
Cocobolo
Burmese blackwood
Lignum vitae
 
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I don't believe those need stabilizing nor do I believe unless they are burls and such that the shouldn't be used. I believe straight grained colourfull hard woods are all very useable and can look terrific. Frank
 
We've stabilized the following with good results:
African blackwood
All Acacia species (gidgee included)
Bubinga
Osage Orange (bodark)
Walnut - Claro
Walnut - English

The questions is not "what woods work fine without being stabilized?". A better question is "what do collectors want?". Focusing on what sells makes you and your customer happy.

Chuck
 
Well it depends what you mean by collectors. Is it someone who only buys that special made knife or the guy who just may buy knives because he just likes them and just may take a different one hunting with him every time he goes? It certainly true that if you are going to a wedding you probably will put on your best clothes but if you are slopping a bunch of pigs, the working clothes are the ones to put on. Why go to a $30 handle on a very plain knife made for rough duty when that walnut wood that's in the wood shed could do a great job !!! Frank
 
I think the list would be shorter if you asked what woods HAVE to be stabilized ? These I think are to soft and NEED to be stabilized- redwood , sycamore , leopardwood , spalted wood that went to far and is now soft ,
 
Spalted , you make a good point. It wood be easier that way.

As far as customer / maker relationships go , of course you want to educate your clients to allow them to make an informed decision to create the best quality knife you can provide. Whether they want the handle stabilized or not- most prefer wood stabilized, especially for kitchen use.Whatever your customer wants- goes. I understand marketing something that some describe as an " impervious " handle material goes a long way. infact if they can be stabilized- I stabilize them- . . I have used many handles that were stabilized and many that were not. I'm happy with both of them.
There is also something to be said about folks advertising wood as stabilized but in reality they use made up home concoctions that do not work. That worries me.
I am curious of what others opinions are about wood that would do just fine without stabilization. I run into new makers often enough to say that they think all wood must be stabilized.To note - many unstabilized knife handled have stood the test of time with flying colors.
I know most burls and softwoods would fail without stabilization . Infact it would make sense the reason the wood stabilizing process for knife handles was conceived is to address these issues.
I do think input people have regarding " to stabilize or not"would be very interesting and fun , atleast to me.
Thanks fellas for the input.- Marekz
 
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Snake wood is a very dense oil rich wood that I use without stabilizing. I have had it stabilized with poor results.
 
i have recently got into knifemaking and have made a couple blades with homemade micarta and wild cherry scales. i recently ordered some red maple burl that has a beautiful figure, i have not started working it yet as not sure if i should send it out for stabilization first. my question is would it be necessary to stabilize maple burl or would it be allright natural?
 
Marekz, you mentioned "stand the test of time," and I'm curious what you meant by that. 10 years? 100? Or more?

This is honestly a really idle question, because I was watching that show about the Ulfberht sword, and looking at those museum pieces, in which everything except the blade had rotted away, and I wonder how well stabilized wood holds up after centuries. I'm sure it would hold up better than unstabilized, which makes me wonder what would be left over to be passed on to grandkids, and what would be left to be dug up by archaeologists years from now (leaving aside what they'll probably think of us).

I prefer stabilized where possible, although it's more expensive, and sometimes I just can't afford it.

That being said, bocote seems to do pretty well unstabilized also, to add to your list. I like working with it a lot. I can generally find pieces with good figure, and I love the orangish hue. Reminds me of a tiger.
 
I was thinking about this thread last night.
1st - Palm - always get it stabilized. They say it is like a bundle of straws, more like a bundle of needle sharp splinters.
Ebony - Black or striped seem good either way, but Black & white I would always stabilize.
 
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