stabilized wood(working)

92degrees

92degrees

Joined
Jun 21, 2001
Messages
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I just put together a 605 kit. I ordered stabilized wood -- amboyia (sp?), which Texas Knife Supply recommended. I had them cut the stock into 1/4" slabs, so now I have 5 pieces to work with. I'm kind of short on woodworking tools (ahh-apartment life!) so I was planning on having a local shop plane the wood down to the point where I could shape it by hand. No dice. Nobody will touch stabilized wood.

So, any recommendations on how to get the wood down to a workable thickness? What would you recommend after that -- I was hoping Dremmel and sandpaper -- but will that not be enough.

Thanks in advance.
 
What kind of stabilization are we talking about? I guess it's something like Pakkawood with epoxy impregnation under pressure rather than something less stable such as PEG, right?

In either case, I think you'll be fine. AFAIK, none of the common stabilizers have silica or other abrasive agents in them (assuming you're not impregnating with steel filled epoxy ;) ). What the hell are tools for if they don't wanna use 'em?

The dremel should be fine, but I think that your control is going to be less than supah. I really beat up some canvas micarta that I was making a handle out of, but it did rough it out. I think one of those Sandvik cabinet scrapers would be real handy in the final finish touch up. They are like $7.00 at a woodworking shop, although. Ski-techs use them too for flattening ski bases.

Also, be advised that the dust from a dremel can be nasty. The millwrights who grind micarta into rub strips at the mill I worked at complained bitterly about the dust. Don't know about compreg wood, but grind in ventilation and don't snort the dust.

Hey, fella, you're the one in Amherst, MA. The KING of wood is a professor emeritus at UMASS. His name is Bruce Hoadley. He is one of the only people I admire, besides Liberraci that is. He is the author of an excellent introductory book titled "Understanding Wood."
I bet he would be glad to advise should you ask him nicely via email.

How is Spoletto's doing? :)
 
Ustulina, Spoletto's is still hoppin'. My wife and I had our first date there. I just looked up Prof. Hoadley on our system -- I work for the University also. I'll drop him a line, thanks. I'm thinking I'll buy a plane this weekend and work slow, unless someone else has a suggestion. I think that the local shops thought that the wood might gunk up their blades. Got me.
 
You need to take this query to the Shop Talk forum. They'll tell ya more than ya ever wanted to know on how to work with stabilized wood.
Take it there. You'll be glad you did.:D
 
I've worked a lot with resin impregnated woods and always start with 1/4".

I use a Dremel for 90% of the process, the last 10% is all hand finishing. I'd be curious to see how well a cabinet scraper would work but I have a feeling the wood is going to just laugh at you. I've eaten up many expensive blades just cutting this stuff..

You'll find that once you get the shape cut out that the dremel will remove the stock pretty quick with a nice agressive sandpaper wheel, as you get closer to the finished profile reduce grit.

Drop me a note if you get stuck and maybe I can help a little..

Ustulina is definately right about the dust, cover anything nice with plastic and wear a dust mask or you'll feel like someone filled your nostrels with spackling the next day.

Most of all have fun and take your time :)

Here's a couple I did in Dymondwood, which is epoxy impregnated.

cqc7.JPG


410.JPG
 
You never want to work a burl (stabilized or not) with a scraper. Scrapers are meant only to work with the grain not across it. With the swirling grain structure of burls, you will most likely just tear out chunks.

As to a planer - forget it. Three reasons. First the same as above, you would be more likely to just explode a burl as to actualy plan it down. Second, the pieces are too small. Most production planers require the wood to be at least 12" long. Any shorter and it will miss the drive bars and get shot back into the kick back fingers by the cutter head. Third, with stabilized material you will destroy the cutter head. At $90 for new carbide blades and $50 per hour for someone like me to rebuild the gears, no company will take the chance.

If you have a few extra bucks, grab the cheapy Craftman or Harbor Frieght belts sanders. They run about $80. If you unit has a small balcony or patio you are all set.
 
You're welcome to come out to my shop in Leverett and we can sand down your pieces to a smaller size. I have a custom knife shop in the Leverett Crafts and Arts building where I build folders. Give me a shout and we'll arrange a time.:)
 
Thanks for the help guys! I have several extra pieces of burl, so I'm going to experiment with the dremmel and see how it goes.

RostaFrei -- thanks for the great offer! I didn't know you were around here! I'll drop you a line. Thanks again. Steve
 
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