Stabilizing

I've read through the threads on this topic and I'm building a little vacuum / pressure chamber from the plans posted here. What I haven't found is a definitive answer on what is the right stuff to use and where to get it. Places like Rutland, Knife and Gun and others produce great products but, understandably, don't care to share their recipes. Anything specific about product name and where it's available would be much appreciated.

Regards

Rob!
 
Joined
Jul 27, 1999
Messages
228
Well, I have run about 7 or 8 loads of various woods through my stabilizer, and can offer some things to avoid, if not a final solution. Don't use sanding sealer. It doesn't provide any appreciable hardening on the surface of your material, as it's not really made to surface harden wood, just make it ready to sand (where hardening wouldn't be much advantage). Polyurethane is a little better at sealing grain and hardening,but still won't make soft wood hard enough to resist scratching.

The chemist dude at the local sherwin williams store recomended CAB-Acrylic Lacquer as a hardener. Cellulose Acetate Butyrate lacquer is (according to him) the hardest finish for wood. It's NOT cheap though, at $30 a gallon, plus it has to be cut with a fairly expensive thinner.

I've been cutting my stabilant 50% with the recomended thinner, and still have to use about 5 days in vac and 5 days under 75psi to get complete penetration of a 2x2x5 block of hardwood.

I'm thinking about biting the bullet and getting the cab lacquer to try to get better hardening of the walnut burl and soft figured wood I really want to use, but if anybody has already done so and wasn't happy with the results Please let me know and save me about $50.

James

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Those who are willing to trade freedom for security deserve neither, and in the end, seldom retain them!
 
Rob
I found a product called wood hardener by min wax co.It was at Eagle Hdwe in the wood finishing section.
I've just used it for dipping handles in to try and seal the grain.To thin for that but may penitrate good since it's so thin.
take Care
TJ Smith
 
Thanks guys but I can't help but feel we're missing something. Many commercial outfits return stabilized products within a few days. Some of them use a product that fills grain and small gaps. Spalted crumbly maple comes out like a sheet of Micarta. Are we just missing the proper chemicals? There must be someone out there who knows the right stuff and there must also be a chemical company that's willing to sell it.

Thanks

Rob!
 
I am also just getting started. I have used thompsons water seal just for testing purposes. It seems to penetrate well but is not what I want either. I was contemplating using thinned fiberglassing resin with no activator then trying to harden it by using an oven to generate the heat necessary to cure it. Don't know if this will work or not. Any suggestions??
 
Well, not really, other to let us know how it turns out
smile.gif
And don't use that extra special piece of figured maple you've been saving for your test piece
smile.gif
Speaking of test pieces, I've cut about a dozen 1x1.5x5 blocks from a chunk of straight grain black walnut I got from a neighbor. I run one block of it with each new mix, cut it open and save it with the notes of what I used. Sounded like a good ideal at the time
smile.gif


James

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Those who are willing to trade freedom for security deserve neither, and in the end, seldom retain them!
 
I just looked in the K & G catalog for a clue as to what they use, they say "impregnated with monomers and acrylics",
not much help unless we've got a chemist among us, but it sounds like T.J. might be on the right track with the acrylic product that was recomended to him.
I may be wrong, but I beleive there is an article at knifeart.com on stabilizing wood and they mention some specific things to use. I'll try and find it again.-Guy T.

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Results! Why, man,
I have gotten a lot of results.
I know several thousand
things that won't work.

Thomas A. Edison
 
Well, I found the article at the aforementioned site and the author recomended
Thompsons Water Seal, quality acrylic or water based sanding sealers, polyurethane and sodium silicate (what's that?). His stated preference was the acrylic sanding sealer. I think we're still missing something here.-Guy T.
 
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