stabilizing

Joined
Dec 5, 2000
Messages
6
I have also been working with minwax hardener to stabilize various woods. A week ago I tried something different after gluing a beautiful piece if Koa to a blade. I slack belted it to 120 grit then put it in hardner up to the bolsters sealed up the tank, pumped in 100 psi for 15 min, and then sucked it down to 18 in's mercury for for hrs. I could buff with everything in my shop and could not get green chrome in the light areas of the koa. { I forgot I added 15% polyurethane into the mix}. The finish is in the wood, not on top, and appears to be hard as woodpecker lips.
We use methylmethacrylate in dentistry to make dentures, etc, I've been told it's the same at the pro stabilizers. If you pressure pack this stuff into the wood in a small tight container, you could put it in a water bath and cook it for 3 hrs and have an approximation of the professional results.
Will check with commercial labs for info that help with technique,,,
buff with care,,,docblade

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docblade
 
I removed my pieces from my mixture tonight and they looked good. I put in oven for 1 1/2 hour on warm to dry. Only problem I see is the purpleheart has small cracks all the way into the grain so I am afraid to use it. The cracks are not from the stabilizing as I had a chunk of this board the same weay a while back.

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" I am a shootist."
Clay Allison
" Does this mean we are bladists?"
Vaquero57
McAlpin Bladesmithing
 
I also had some cracks in some burl maple but I took em down on a disc sander and they turned out to be only surface. The minwax had adequate penetration to where it stabilized the fissures as if it were the open grain on oak,,,,,,,,buff with care
 
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