StabilizingQuestion?

[Mike Conner]

Has anyone ever tried stabilizing wood that is fresh cut or green? Does it have to be completely dry or will the stabilizing agent replace the natural moisture that is in the wood?
I have a fiend who is a logger in the hardwoods of Arkansas and can get me all sorts of burl wood at a reasonable price, but when I buy some beautiful handle material I am usually anxious to use some of it on a knife and it is hard to wait for a couple of years for it to air dry naturally.
Any information on this will be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Mike C

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Killing the dog won't cure the bite!
http://members.xoom.com/connerknives

 

[R Dockrell]

I believe it HAS to be dry Mike. I have had wood returned because it was still to green to be stabilized efectivly. Cut it into smaller chunks if your in a hurry but you take the chance of it splitting, even though stabilizing will fill the crack why start with flaws.
A neet trick and do this ONLY when your better half is out of the house is to use that rack that goes into the cloths dryer for drying runners on. a few hours on medium heat seems to really speed up the drying proccess and I haven't split anything yet, And no she doesn't know.

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Robert
Flat Land Knife Works
rdblad@telusplanet.net
http://members.tripod.com/knifeworks/index.html

 

[AchimW]

There are some other ways to get the wood dry faster.

1. Kiln drying. Build yourself a kiln from plywood and isolating material about 2 x 2 x 2 ft. with some air openings. Cut the wood to size. Stack the wood in the kiln so the air can circulate between the layers. Heat the kiln by installing a 60 to 100 W light bulb in it (which should never touch the wood!!).

2. Vacuum drying. You need some quiet sophisticated equipment for that. A solid air chamber from metal and a stron vacuum pump are the main parts. Put the wood in the chamber and evacuate strongly. The water will start to evaporate even at room temperature if pressure is low enough. You may use this equipment to stabilize the wood after drying, too.

Achim

 

[Mike Conner]

R Dockrell,
Thanks for the tip on the dryer I'll have to try it. I think that I will still put into the vacuum chamber after drying to try to pull and remaining moisture out of it and the stadilize it after that. I'll let you know how it works.
Mike C http://members.xoom.com/connerknives


------------------
Killing the dog won't cure the bite!
http://members.xoom.com/connerknives

 

[Nathan House]

Hi My fathr builds long bows
he has a long box made from metal we call the
hot box it is made just to dry wood
it is painted black to draw heat.
he has a mositure meter before he puts
the wood in he takes a reading on green wood
a couple hours in the hot box and the moisture is down to around 9 percent
which is close as kiln dryed as you can get
with out haveing to pay for anyting.
the only down fall is it has to be down in the sun on a wram day thought I would through
that in.As far as using green wood,It won't work,it will shrink on crack on you.
and we don't want that.

 

[Mike Conner]

I live in Texas, so the black box may be a cheap way to speed up the drying process. We are coming into the hottest part of the year for us, so I guess it is time to try it. Besides I could probably use it without getting on the wifes nerves by using the clothes dryer.

Thanks for the help.
Mike C

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Killing the dog won't cure the bite!


[This message has been edited by Mike Conner (edited 06-29-2000).]