Stacked leather Fallkniven pro?

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Feb 9, 2020
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I’d like to make a stacked leather handle for a Fallkniven F1 pro, hoping for a look similar to the Idun. I am wondering how to approach the butt cap/pommel; both where to buy one and how to install it. I’m looking for something plain, but not seeing much, and also wondering how to attach it. I’m thinking put a pin through the portion of the tang that protrudes from the current grip? Any ideas or experience would be appreciated.
 
What does the end of the tang look like?
Screwing is a good option if possible
 
I’m not sure of the construction but it looks like a through tang. If that is the case I’d have someone Tig weld a pommel onto a glued and compressed stack of leather that would need to be shaped and finished. I have no idea where to buy a premade handle ready for you to attach.
 
I appreciate the feedback and the video is really helpful. I’m planning to make the handle myself, but I don’t know how to weld. There’s a machine shop just down the street that can probably take care of that part if I can find a plain pommel.
 
I would think if you go welding on a knife the heat generated would compromise the heat treat of the blade, it's a laminated blade as well.
 
I appreciate the feedback and the video is really helpful. I’m planning to make the handle myself, but I don’t know how to weld. There’s a machine shop just down the street that can probably take care of that part if I can find a plain pommel.
What you want to weld ??
 
It was suggested that the pommel be TIG welded. I don’t know what that means, I guess. I was looking for some guidance on the best way to convert an F1 pro to a stacked leather handle, similar to the fallkniven Idun. I think I can manage the glue and shaping of the handle but I’m kind of at a loss as to how I would cap it.
 
It was suggested that the pommel be TIG welded. I don’t know what that means, I guess. I was looking for some guidance on the best way to convert an F1 pro to a stacked leather handle, similar to the fallkniven Idun. I think I can manage the glue and shaping of the handle but I’m kind of at a loss as to how I would cap it.
You don t need to weld ANYthing :) This what you need to do ........if you do it right it will be no visible ...
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Falkniwen Idun.......seems that they use thread at pommel ? You can do that too ,almost in same way as on picture .Instead of peening tang you make thread on end of tang and use nut .
You need to make pommel to look like this to do that ..
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Damn that’s a beautiful knife. I think I understand what you mean; I would need to cut part of the tang, round it, and cut a thread into it, right? And I’d need a hole in the center of the pommel threaded to match, and then I just thread the pommel on like a nut? Do I have that right or am I missing something? It seems doable.
 
Damn that’s a beautiful knife. I think I understand what you mean; I would need to cut part of the tang, round it, and cut a thread into it, right? And I’d need a hole in the center of the pommel threaded to match, and then I just thread the pommel on like a nut? Do I have that right or am I missing something? It seems doable.
You can do that if you like nothing to be visible from back side of pommel /little complicated with tightening / or use nut .......Nut can be done in different way ..........look this picture ,different ways how can be nut used :thumbsup:
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I think it's usaknifemaker that sells aluminum pommels, grind to fit, with a brass nut that fits in the pommels. Used by many production knives. Just thread your tang end . You can also just thread the pommels you make but...the pieces from USA come out pretty nice and and allow some adjustability.
 
Or weld a piece of threat on the tang, or file a T-shaped hole in the end of the tang and have it hold the head of a screw with the thread sticking out the end.
Cutting female threads in a piece of metal as a pommel is not hard
 
Damn that’s a beautiful knife. I think I understand what you mean; I would need to cut part of the tang, round it, and cut a thread into it, right? And I’d need a hole in the center of the pommel threaded to match, and then I just thread the pommel on like a nut? Do I have that right or am I missing something? It seems doable.
If you plan to permanently glue the handle , this is what i would do .Simple but most reliable .End of tang where pommel should seat must be square so pommel can not turn at first .I found some picture from one last project which are suitable for this so you can see what i m talking about ....If you use stainless pommel and make tight feet after peening tang on pommel and sand after that with sandpaper or on grinder if you have one , nothing visible will be there...Square hole in pommel should have some very small taper towards end so when you peen tang it can expand inside pommel hole and make strong joint . Make sure to make end part of tang/square part/ little longer then length of pommel ,so pommel can move when you peen tang and make pressure on end of leather ..
If you choose this method, you must first check the hardness of tang on end ...
First install/glue whatever way you intend to do that leather parts on tang , use same other part on end to press them tight on tang and guard and let glue to cure ..then install pommel and use hammer to finish job . I hope this time my English is better :D
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I’m not sure why the leather looks all crusty like that, it’s almost like it’s got a film on it. I used smooth on ea40 epoxy that I use for making bows. I dropped the knives off at a metal working shop by my house and they welded a screw to the end of the tang. All in all I think it worked out pretty well, but I want to figure out what I did wrong before I do the next one. Thank you for all the tips! I just saw the suggestion of cutting a t shaped opening for a bolt. I like that idea.
 
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This is how they turned out! Thank you everyone for the help. I can't wait to do more of them. I'm ordering some Mora blanks this week.
 
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