stacked leather handle question

Joined
Oct 27, 2010
Messages
8,721
With all these minis showing up, I was wondering about a stacked leather handle on a mini. Has anyone done one, or what material simulates it well enough? I did ssome searching, but haven't found any pics of one on here. Can heavy leather soaked in thin CA glue be worked like other materials for a mini, or how do you recommend working with leather in this scale?


Cheers-

-Xander
 
I would try laminated wood (Diamondwood, Pakkawood,) cut across the grain. This would give the appearance of leather washers, depending on the scale of the knife.
 
It would work fine but i would use the thinest leather i could find to make it look like a big knife. Count how many layers are in the handle of a full sized knife and use the same amount in the mini.

Bob
 
Keeping to scale is the problem.1/8" thick leather disks at 12:1 ends up being .010" thick.
The lightest weight of leather is 2oz. and is about .030". thick

I have used lizard skin to simulate rayskin on sheaths and Japanese handles.For a stacked handle perhaps frog, lizard, or snake skin would work. The thinnest grade of lamb skin might be OK for a 6:1 scale mini.
Or- you could tan up some mouse hides :) - which I did with a white mouse for a mini wool covered viking sword sheath. I used Rep-tan from Tandy. It was OK, but did not really look like wool.

I experimented with making a stacked handle look from a solid material, but the only thing that had scale thickness was tan/brown micarta cut across the grain. The paper stuff did not show any striations, the linen was OK, and canvas too coarse. Model aircraft plywood looked sort of OK.

To make a stacked handle from thin pieces of leather, I would cut or punch out 1/4" pieces of your material. Then thread them on a sewing needle. Use a cork on each side to allow the stack to be squeezed in a light pressure clamp. Apply thin CA and repeat until it is fully permeated. Cut the corks off and chuck the needle in a dremel and sand into a round cylinder of the desired size and shape. Heat the needle to allow it to be pulled out of the handle stack. Re-drill the hole to match the tang on the mini.
 
...Or- you could tan up some mouse hides :) - which I did with a white mouse for a mini wool covered viking sword sheath. I used Rep-tan from Tandy. It was OK, but did not really look like wool....

Now I know why you made those miniature skinning knives! I don't imagine mouse hides being available commercially...

I don't think my wife would approve of me skinning a mouse...


I think I am going to do sme searching at the craft store tomorrow.



-Xander
 
Or- you could tan up some mouse hides :) - which I did with a white mouse for a mini wool covered viking sword sheath. I used Rep-tan from Tandy. It was OK, but did not really look like wool.

Well, duuuuuuhhhhh! You should have used shrew hide. ;-)

Or better yet, set the mouse hair in curlers and give it a permanent to get the "wool effect".

I'm wondering, did you use one of your little knives to skin the mouse out?

If a person wants to put a wooden handle on does he/she need to find wood with grain pattern to the proper scale? Would you get that from a bonsai tree?

Amusing myself,

Paul Meske, Wisconsin
Alias LonePine
 
Last edited:
#15 scalpel blade + $1 frozen snake food mouse = mini sheep hide.

Grain size matters a lot on minis. Use the tightest grain possible. A dead bonsai tree would probably be a good choice. 5000 year old Bristlecone pine would be another good choice.
Of course you would want to get it stabilized.
 
Back
Top