stag-bone questions...

[Mongo]

Not sure where to ask this question, but figured here was best. I have one stag-bone handled knife... a Queen stockman. I do not care for the look of the stag bone, it is too light and shiny looking. Is there anything that can be "painted" on it to make it darker and closer to the real thing? I also have seen other knives with stag-bone on them, and the pics always look better than the real thing... my example here would be the BRKT knives. I would consider one if I knew that I could modify the look to my satisfaction.
So, is there anything that can be done to stag-bone to make it look more realistic to the real thing- Sambar? Potassium permangate? blow torch? tea? coffee?
Thank you in advance for your answers,
Mongo

 

[Mike Hull]

Leather stain, or dye(Feibings) would work fine. Just buff after it dries. You can get it at a shoe repair shop.
If it gets too dark, just swab lightly with rubbing alcohol to lighten.

Potassium permanganate is another way that many makers use, but if the dye works, no sense messing with PP.

 

[Dan Gray]

I did this one with permanganate
it was very light

 

[Mongo]

What are the problems in working with Potassium permanganate? Dangerous/toxic etc? Has anybody tried strong coffee or tea?

 

[Terry McMaster]

You can also lightly hand torch the scales with a small torch. That will produce a skin deep color. Just don't get them too hot or you'll have a whole different problem. LOL

 

[John Andrews]

Originally posted by Terry McMaster
You can also lightly hand torch the scales with a small torch. That will produce a skin deep color. Just don't get them too hot or you'll have a whole different problem. LOL

Yep, especially if you do it in the house! Your spouse will beat you severly about the head and shoulders!

 

[Wild Rose]

What are the problems in working with Potassium permanganate? Dangerous/toxic etc? Has anybody tried strong coffee or tea?

I used PP for years and a couple of problems are: 1 - it is messy to use, touch ANYTHING and it will turn brown 2 - Long term it tends to get ratty looking - fades and just gets well "ratty" (several other reenactors I know have discovered the same thing)

Toxic - yes but no more so than a lot of things we use - just use the standard precaution - rubber gloves, etc - as you would when using any chemical.

Strong tea and coffee work, but they are water based and wind up putting moisture into the antler.

My all time favorite method to age/color antler or bone after 30+ years is using Fiebings Leather Dye (NOT the Pro Oil).

Colors: every piece is different - density and soak time have a major effect on color. Straight British Tan usually gives that "old yellow" look to antler and ivory - sometimes it comes out a bit too orangesih so tone it down with light brown. Mix the British Tan with brown or use straight brown for other shades - in fact I often use a coat of black first and then immediately wipe offwith a coarse cloth amd then rub down with 4/0 steel wool leaving the dark down in the cracks and crevices, then a coat or two of the tan/brown tones - keep sopping them to it or wrap a cloth soaked in the color and let sit until you get the color you want - too dark and clean with denatured alcohol and steel wool. Wipe off the extra with a coarse cloth. I do a final seal with several coats of Boiled Linseed Oil, Watco Danish Oil, or Tung Oil.

Since I make only authentic period pieces I don't use stabilized antler so whether this system will work on it or not I don't know. Lastly age, use, and sun will have an effect on color.