stainless 52100 san mai slicer.

Bill Burke

Bill Burke

Joined
Aug 1, 2008
Messages
1,762
Here's one I thought you guys might like. 10.5 inch slicer.

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close up of blade

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Handle and spacer

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Thanks for looking.
 
Wow that is a real beauty, nice work!
 
Nope, sorry; I don't like it.








I LOVE it! I'll bet that sucka is a slicin/dicin fool! :)
 
Fabulous shape and absolutely stellar horn!

If the stainless is that transition line 1/2way up the ha, you are kind of missing the point of a laminate amigo.

I like about 1/4" of carbon showing max, stainless is there to prevent oxidation, not offer a striking counterpoint.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
Actually STeven, the kitchen knife knuts might actually like more carbon steel exposed. The better to patina you with........
Kohai999 said:
Fabulous shape and absolutely stellar horn!

If the stainless is that transition line 1/2way up the ha, you are kind of missing the point of a laminate amigo.

I like about 1/4" of carbon showing max, stainless is there to prevent oxidation, not offer a striking counterpoint.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
Click to expand...
 
jdm61 said:
Actually STeven, the kitchen knife knuts might actually like more carbon steel exposed. The better to patina you with........
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Try cutting some lemons or limes with carbon steel and then cut white fish like halibut......leaves a very ugly brown line....there is nothing to like about that....:thumbdn:

I have been doing this for a month with a knife that a very dear friend GAVE to me to try out at work....it will be well used at home but carbon steel has no place in my Seafood department.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
Kohai999 said:
Try cutting some lemons or limes with carbon steel and then cut white fish like halibut......leaves a very ugly brown line....there is nothing to like about that....:thumbdn:
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Definitely could see that happening, so what steel do you prefer for seafood knives STeven?

Beautifully done Bill. What's the spine thickness? The last photo showing the drop shows how thin the edge must be. Very nice. I could imagine that to pull the transition line down would require an extremely thin core of 52100. I'd be curious to hear thoughts on what working with such a thin core would do to the performance of the steel, if any effect.

Is it bolstered?
 
SBranson said:
Definitely could see that happening, so what steel do you prefer for seafood knives STeven?

Beautifully done Bill. What's the spine thickness? The last photo showing the drop shows how thin the edge must be. Very nice. I could imagine that to pull the transition line down would require an extremely thin core of 52100. I'd be curious to hear thoughts on what working with such a thin core would do to the performance of the steel, if any effect.

Is it bolstered?
Click to expand...

Stuart in order to use a very thin core of carbon steel in this type of blade construction a shim of nickle would have to be put between the core and the stainless to elimnate carbon migration which in turn would eliminate the "shadows in the blade. But I am playing with a different process to try and get the best of both worlds so steven will be happy.
 
SBranson said:
Definitely could see that happening, so what steel do you prefer for seafood knives STeven?
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I have been using very thinly ground S90V to great success, Stuart. The vast majority of our knives at work are some soft-ass mystery steel from a company that provides cutlery to the food service and grocery industries....easy to dull, easy to sharpen, notch like a mofo. The S90 holds a great edge, and only requires some diamond rodding in order to come back up to sharp....no notching.

Bill Burke said:
....But I am playing with a different process to try and get the best of both worlds so steven will be happy.
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Steven would be delighted to see what you come up with, my friend! The last 9 months have VASTLY changed how I look at kitchen cutlery, because day in/day out at least 5 days a week I spend somewhere around 3 hours per day cutting.

Michael Rader said:
That's very nice Bill. I know the new owner is going to love it - and that's all that matters.-M
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You would say something like that....fortunately....Bill has a massively thick skin, and takes advice well, integrating advice into his endeavors, not being ignorant and getting butthurt. He knows what it takes to be successful, and how to continually grow as a person and as a maker. I have been blessed to call Bill Burke a friend.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
STeven, I am just going by what the guys say on the kitchen forum. The FIRST thing that most of them do when they get a carbon knife is to force some kind of patina on it, even on a damascus blade.
Kohai999 said:
Try cutting some lemons or limes with carbon steel and then cut white fish like halibut......leaves a very ugly brown line....there is nothing to like about that....:thumbdn:

I have been doing this for a month with a knife that a very dear friend GAVE to me to try out at work....it will be well used at home but carbon steel has no place in my Seafood department.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
Click to expand...
 
Bill Burke said:
Stuart in order to use a very thin core of carbon steel in this type of blade construction a shim of nickle would have to be put between the core and the stainless to elimnate carbon migration which in turn would eliminate the "shadows in the blade. But I am playing with a different process to try and get the best of both worlds so steven will be happy.
Click to expand...

Thanks Bill. I figured that if it was too thin to push the transition down then you'd end up screwing up the 52100. Neat idea about the nickel to stop the transfer.. One of these days I gotta try some of this stuff.

Kohai999 said:
I have been using very thinly ground S90V to great success, Stuart. The vast majority of our knives at work are some soft-ass mystery steel from a company that provides cutlery to the food service and grocery industries....easy to dull, easy to sharpen, notch like a mofo. The S90 holds a great edge, and only requires some diamond rodding in order to come back up to sharp....no notching.
Click to expand...

Thanks STeven. I've only made one knife of S90V and it is hellish to work once heat treated but talk about wear resistance. I tried hand finishing and the paper slid off the steel with very little effect. Amazing stuff.
 
Thanks for all the compliments guys.

Oh Steve you should now that it is considered a no no to use you fine shasimi slicer to cut fruit and vegtables. At least that is what the bigdogs tell me.
 
jdm61 said:
STeven, I am just going by what the guys say on the kitchen forum. The FIRST thing that most of them do when they get a carbon knife is to force some kind of patina on it, even on a damascus blade.
Click to expand...

I forced a patina on the gift knife with lime juice and mustard within a week.....it minimizes oxidation but does not prevent it.

Bill Burke said:
Oh Steve you should now that it is considered a no no to use you fine shasimi slicer to cut fruit and vegtables. At least that is what the bigdogs tell me.
Click to expand...

It is true that the majority of Asian style chefs/cooks have specific knives for meat, fish, soft veggies and hard veggies.....they also are not working in the environment that I am in, which requires a wider range of applications....AND that handle on your knife looks so comfy that I don't think I would want to put it down.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
Bill Burke said:
Stuart in order to use a very thin core of carbon steel in this type of blade construction a shim of nickle would have to be put between the core and the stainless to elimnate carbon migration which in turn would eliminate the "shadows in the blade. But I am playing with a different process to try and get the best of both worlds so steven will be happy.
Click to expand...

Very nice slicer Bill..

If you used a 300 series stainless, you will avoid the carbon migration and negate the need for sticking a couple extra pieces of nickle in the mix. I believe that
the 300 series s.s. is a bit more stain resistant also.

Best Regards,
David
 
D.Mirabile said:
Very nice slicer Bill..

If you used a 300 series stainless, you will avoid the carbon migration and negate the need for sticking a couple extra pieces of nickle in the mix. I believe that
the 300 series s.s. is a bit more stain resistant also.

Best Regards,
David
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Hi Dave, and thanks

When I first started this endever of stainless carbon san mai I was told by Daryl Myer that 300 series stainless would almost always result in a knife that was split down the middle of the core, Like that cable O1 knife you had in california. So I have stayed away from the 300 series . I also wonder if it wouldn't actuall be worse for pulling carbon from the core?


that handle on your knife looks so comfy that I don't think I would want to put it down.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
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Thanks Steven coming from you that means a lot

Great knife, great thread and good comments. Nicely done Bill.
Gary
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Thanks Gary
 
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