Stainless San Mai finishing isdues

TyrellKnifeworks · Nov 9, 2020

I already have a finished blade, welded perfectly and it’s ground and sanded. I had it sanded to 1500 and then etched it in ferric but the SS was pitting. I resanded it and was given a recommendation of a very quick dip in ferric and then into coffee for 12 hrs. Then bake it with WD40 on it to “bake” on the color. Well that didn’t work. The coffee darkness is coming off. Anyone want to provide sone better insight here? Should I be sanding to 3000 first? Other finishing suggestions? I really want the black/silver contrast. Thanks!

HSC /// · Nov 10, 2020

What is the core steel and stainless cladding specifically?

the grit level you finish to has nothing to do with the contrast achieved IMO and experience

you should get an immediate reaction in the FC etch. Shouldn’t need the long coffee soak and the wd-40

I achieve my look in a quick FC etch and rarely go more than 400 grit finish

TyrellKnifeworks · Nov 10, 2020

It’s 416 stainless with a 1080 core. I’m looking to achieve a dark black and silver contrast that is durable.

HSC /// · Nov 10, 2020

TyrellKnifeworks said:
It’s 416 stainless with a 1080 core. I’m looking to achieve a dark black and silver contrast that is durable.

You won’t get a durable contrast with etching. They all come off as far as I know. And pretty much right away with use of the knife

Tom Lewis · Nov 10, 2020

In my experience, 1095 will give a blacker color than will 1080.

TyrellKnifeworks · Nov 10, 2020

Not true. I’ve seen blades with dark contrast that are very durable and seeking someone who’s done it.

HSC /// · Nov 10, 2020

TyrellKnifeworks said:
Not true. I’ve seen blades with dark contrast that are very durable and seeking someone who’s done it.

You have seen it? As in a picture? Or you actually used a blade that was etched and you found it durable in use?

I can see from your Instagram that you’re an accomplished Bladesmith and you know how to etch your Damascus blades.

billf · Nov 10, 2020

FWIW, I think Burt Foster probably has the most experience with stainless/carbon San Mai. Jason Knight also does this.

Worldwide, the CAS guys do this a bunch too....

Bill

TyrellKnifeworks · Nov 10, 2020

billf said:
FWIW, I think Burt Foster probably has the most experience with stainless/carbon San Mai. Jason Knight also does this.

Worldwide, the CAS guys do this a bunch too....

Bill

Thanks Bill. Nobody really talks about finishing the blade in videos though. I have watched a bunch of videos from Curtis Haaland and Loz Harrop but they don't really cover how to do it. I've got a message in to Loz for help.

It's been etched and it's back in the coffee now after taking it to 3000 grit. I do think the oil finish makes sense. When I did it last time I had some parts that stayed very black after wiping, it just wasn't consistent. I had to sand off those black parts to get it back to bare metal, so I know its possible to get it very durable.

Thanks all. I'll let you know how it goes.

timos- · Nov 10, 2020

i did a bit of experimenting with some of Devin Thomas 1095 and nickel Damascus. The most attractive and durable finish i got was by etching in ferric, refinishing with a high grit paper and repeating that a dozen times or so. I varied the etch time anywhere from a few minutes to 15 minutes for each cycle. I ended up with a good contrast that stayed put with regular use. ( a few meals worth of prep) before i sold it.
That was raindrop pattern though, I dont know if a straight san mai would achieve the same result. Look at the tons of Japanese blades with SS cladding and carbon steel core....non of them retain a very dark contrast over time. I have heard of parkerizing though, you might want to look that up.