Stainless

S

Silverthorn

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Apr 24, 2011
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Whats the difference between types of stainless ?

Like Sandvik 14C28N stainless steel , and Aus 8, and D2 and Aus 6 and whatnot.
I am asking because I am trying to decide between a few folders and I want to make sure I get the best tool for the job.
Thanks in advance for your help guys, I know many of you really know your stuff.
 
Well, I'm no steel expert, but I can tell you what I know about those particular steels.

Sandvik 14c28n is pretty good midrange steel from sweden (most likely a kershaw knife you're looking at). Its no S30V, but it takes a nice fine edge, and holds it pretty well.

AUS 8 is (from what I understand, correct me if I'm wrong) is from japan, and is roughly equivalent to the Sandvik steel above in terms of performance.

D2 is kind of a stainless steel (mostly, although maybe not technically). Its actually a tool steel if I remember right. It is super hard (hard to sharpen, but holds a great edge), and apparently it is more of a "toothy" steel (lots of large carbides I hear). Its a bit more high end than the other steels you have mentioned.

AUS 6 is AUS8's little brother. It is more in line with some of the cheaper steels (many chinese steels, 440a, etc), and is generally a budget steel. Its a bit softer, so it won't hold an edge as long as the others you've mentioned.

Hopefully someone else comes in and corrects me if I'm wrong :P.
 
pretty good summary.
my personal experience is Sandvik is good stuff
AUS8 takes a good edge and is easy to bring it back, but doesn't hold "hair popping sharp" well.
D2 is a "semi-stainless" in that it has a lot of chrome, but not enough to be "stainless" (11% in D2, vs minimum 13% for stainless) it takes a good, sharp, but not hair whittling edge and holds it a long time. Use diamond steels to sharpen it or you'll be at it for a long time. because of the larger grain structure, it's a great cutting/slicing steel, but tends to chip if the edge is thinned down to much or a lot of lateral stress is applied. (20 degree bevel is a good thing here, 12 degree is not)
AUS6 is "softer" & less wear resistant than the other 2 -- takes a killer edge, just doesn't hold it well. (think: the steel used in gas station knives)

Cold Steel & CRKT both use AUS8 a lot and both have a very good heat treat for it.
Kershaw does good things with D2 (love my CPMD2 Rake) and Dozier works magic with it (but even then, I wouldn't really want a chopper made out of it)
 
From another source:


AUS-6 - AUS-8 - AUS-10 (aka 6A 8A 10A)
Japanese stainless steels, roughly comparable in carbon content to 440A (AUS-6, .65% carbon) and 440B (AUS-8, .75% carbon) and 440C (AUS-10, 1.1% carbon). AUS-6 is used by Al Mar, and is a competitor to low-end steels like 420J2. Cold Steel's use of AUS-8 has made it pretty popular, as heat treated by CS it won't hold an edge like ATS-34, but is a bit softer (and therefore weaker) and tougher. 8A is a competitor of middle-tier steels like ATS-55 and Gin-1. AUS-10 has roughly the same carbon content as 440C but with slightly less chromium, so it should be a bit less rust resistant but perhaps a bit tougher than 440C. It competes with higher-end steels, like ATS-34 and above. All 3 steels have some vanadium added (which the 440 series lacks), which will improve wear resistance and refines the grain for both good toughness, and the ability to sharpen to a very keen edge. Many people have reported that they are able to get knives using steels that include vanadium, like 8A, sharper than they can get non-vanadium steels like ATS-34.
 
Thanks guys !
Some great info so far.

I think you have pretty much cleared up my concerns about Aus 8.
Looks like I am probably getting a Phat Bob aaand a Pack Rat and I will play with them both ..lol.
 
Aus 8,
I don't plan on doing much Chopping with a folder, but I do use my folders as true tools and I don't want to snap a more brittle steel from torsion.
 
good call - the direction I would have nudged you based on comments from another phat bob user. (and the direction I'm leaning, too)
besides - the lower price point leaves room for more knife purchases! :D
 
I know I asked this in another thread, but whats the best multitool for strength and versatility?
On the subject of breaking a blade from Torc, I have broken the pliers off of 2 multitools from torc, and I have broken the knife blade off pretty much everyone that I have owned from Leatherman, to Gerber.
Sadly not even broken at the bolts or a joint, just sheered right in 2, on the blades at the ricasso and the pliers at the base.
I don't think I am a idiot, I have been working with knives and tools since I was a kid. I have to assume then that the tools were faulty, or not built to withstand that kind of use.
I need one that is ..lol.
 
Just slightly different chemical compositions. For example: d2 has excellent edge retention, but is somewhat brittle. Aus-8 has a bit less edge retention, but better corrosion resistance, and I have seen thin aus-8 blades bent to a 45 degree angle and bent back to straight with no problems. D2 would snap before you got to 45 degrees. Just an example.
And IMO, the leatherman super tool 300 is the best overall for durability and versatility. I've used mine everyday for 3 years, and if it wasn't tough, it would be broken by now.
 
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