Stalking the perfect cheap kukri scabbard

C

clearblue

Joined
Oct 22, 2002
Messages
630
I started this search with the intention to find a workable material that I would be able to shape into a functional kukri scabbard with a minimum of effort and a minimum of technical skills.

I wanted something that had the following characteristics:
1- Very lightweight
2- Extremely durable
3- Resistant to the blade cutting through it
4- Easy to form and mold
5- Cheap
6- Waterproof
7- Unbreakable
8- Thin
9- Easy to carry in a pack,on a belt or shoulder sling
10-Dual use and easy constructed as a scabbard for machetes,knives,kukris or goloks

I believe I found the near perfect material at the nearby Lowes Store.

It is named:
Plastex waterproof wall panel
.060 x 4' x 8'
Bright White
Made by Parkland Plastics
Website:http://www.parklandplastics.com/

Cost for a sheet was $14.24
Stock # 72405

The other materials I needed to start my custom scabbard making project were:
1-A hand riveting tool for blind pop rivets
2-Aluminum rivets--- $5.99 for 100 pcs
1/8" diameter
Grip range-1/16" - 1/8"
3-Backup plates aluminum for use with all brands of rivet tools 1/8" diameter--$1.49 for
30 pieces
4-A pair of tin shears, Prosnip wirecutters Model 20SL, or a pair of heavy duty scissors to
cut the material to scabbard shape.
5- A Dremel tool with a 1/8" bit for drilling the rivet holes

I just finished making my first four scabbards this afternoon so this is another learn by trial and error adventure but so far I am EXTREMELY pleased with the results. Mind you these are by no means beautiful products but they sure are light and practical.

Here's how I'm proceeding: I initially lay the kukri or machete on the material and outline it with a magic marker.
Then I add a minimun of one inch extra material around the perimeter of the outline to put the rivets in in order to rivet the two scabbard sides together.
Then I use the dremel tool with a tiny 1/8 " drill to drill the rivet holes. Then simply put in the rivets.

I have not decided how I want to do the belt loop or carrying loop yet and would be grateful for any ideas.

I have never worked with this material before and I would like to know if this material binds well with glue or epoxy. I selected aluminum rivets because they resist rust and the blde,when sheathed,won't cut through.

There's one thing for sure; with a 4'by 8' sheet of this stuff you can experiment til the cows come home and still have a bunch left over.
 
Originally posted by ddean
Pictures?
Click to expand...

Darn it- wish I could--- but still past my abilities.

Let me see if I can find a better word picture.

Picture two pieces of flexible plastic cut in the shape of a kukri blade and tacked together around the edges so you could slide the blade in and out of the center easily. I like the feel of this material much better -so far-than Kydex. It bends and flexes but I have yet to cut it when inserting or extracting the blades. Its tough yet easy to cut with the tin shears or extra heavy scissors. I had one piece that, when put side by side, was a slight bit larger than it's mate; so I ran the edge along a fine grinding stone on a bench grinder and it grinds off easily,perfectly matching the pieces together.

Checking out the chemical resistance chart here:
http://www.parklandplastics.com/properties.htm

It looks like it is unaffected by a wide range of solvents,acids, and bases

Now that I've thought about it a bit more it would be simple to cut one piece of the scabbard( the piece that will lays against the body)
longer and just loop it over and rivet it back to itself and to the top or outside facing piece and you've got the belt loop.
 
and sold less expensively, and in smaller sizes.

Also, consider...making a wood mold, cutting lexan to size, putting in oven for a short period of time...enough for it to melt, then pop-riveting the melted/formed piece to a flat piece.

When cutting the flat piece, cut in two ( ) shaped belt wide slots. The sheath will ride without flopping on your thigh, and with the curvature of the slots, move up a bit when you are sitting down.

Blade may rattle, insert something to confine it a bit...something water proof...like closed cell foam from a camp mattress.

Drill hole for any drainage you anticipate.

or not.
 
Both materials sound like something to try. That is another thing about this forum some one is always coming up with good ideas. Thanks Gents.:) :D
 
Thanks Kismet! I like the idea of two smaller loops much better.

If you try it Pappy, I hope you'll give us a briefing.
 
Say, are those blind pop rivets smooth on both sides, or do they leave a stub protruding on one side? I'm in the process of making up some sheaths for some crosscut saws from 5" fire hose and haven't decided which type of rivet to use. That stuff you are using sounds pretty good though, and I will be on the lookout for it.
 
they basicallly are finishing nails with an aluminum collar. Nail head is pulled through the aluminium and distorts it to create a rivet effect.

For additional securing...and security...small washers are sold to fit OVER the aluminum...then, when the nail head is pulled through, the distortion flares out and holds the washer in site.... These can be put on both sides.

If you choose, you can use pennies as washers (actually, it's cheaper) and drill through the penny with the appropriate sized-drill, and have that as your washer.

(SOMEWHERE, the friend who took pictures of the refurbished BAS, has images of the "penny sheath"...I made for the 15inAK. Too crude to show in the company of craftsman, really.)
 
One thing I've learned that's a negative is if you put a rivet through your Plastex and want to remove it by grinding off the head of the rivet, then when the rivet gets hot from being ground, it will melt the Plastex and pull right out. It seems to work fine in normal temp situations but I wouldn't lay it down close to a campfire and leave it for long.
 
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