Stamp or Etch Slipjoint Maker's Mark?

[EdgeCraft]

Thoroughly confused. I've read a lot of posts on the subject of a maker's mark. It would seem simple since slipjoints traditionally have a stamped mark. However some say that the knives have to be heated to take the mark. Others say no, a cold stamp works well, ie. EVERS STAMP. Others say etching is the way to go and you can get just as deep a mark as a stamp, BUT do makers use etching on slipjoints? Either method costs $ and I'd rather spend the $ on the "best" method. Thanks for your thoughts.

 

[tattooedfreak]

The best method is the one that works best for you. I currently etch but only because I don't have a stamp. I will eventually order a stamp but even then I may only stamp on a forged piece.

 

[EdgeCraft]

Could someone who makes slipjoints please answer which is better for slipjoints, & why. Thanks

 

[ken erickson]

In my own case I started out etching and about a year ago switched to a stamp. I still use the etch at times. Both methods can give excellent results.
I do stamp my blades pre-heat treat, cold. If your first starting out, learning how to make slipjoints, perhaps a stencil and etch is the way to go. The reason I say this is that you have control over the placement after the blade and tang have been fit. When I first started making slipjoints I often would end up with a much different tang after heat treat and fitting etc. A etch allowed me to correctly position my mark. I am much more confident of the shape of my tang now and I pretty much know were that stamp has to go.
I also believe either way you go, there is going to be a learning curve. Good luck in what ever method you choose.

Stamp

etch

 

[EdgeCraft]

Thanks Ken. If both are equally good, why did you switch to a stamp? What do you use to stamp? A large press. Or a holder like the Evers?
It sounds like you stamp before assembly; and,if you etch, you do it last?

 

[T.A.DAVISON]

Thoroughly confused. I've read a lot of posts on the subject of a maker's mark. It would seem simple since slipjoints traditionally have a stamped mark. However some say that the knives have to be heated to take the mark. Others say no, a cold stamp works well, ie. EVERS STAMP. Others say etching is the way to go and you can get just as deep a mark as a stamp, BUT do makers use etching on slipjoints? Either method costs $ and I'd rather spend the $ on the "best" method. Thanks for your thoughts.

Thanks Ken. If both are equally good, why did you switch to a stamp? What do you use to stamp? A large press. Or a holder like the Evers?
It sounds like you stamp before assembly; and,if you etch, you do it last?

I would go with a stamp, may take a bit to get use to it? But it is more "Traditional" you could say? I use a evers stamp and hold it with my hand and hit it with a hammer.
Don't worry about missing and hitting your hand, you will only do that maybe a few times. Than you will not miss any more cause it really hurts when you do.
Good luck. - :thumbup:

Todd

 

[ken erickson]

I would go with a stamp, may take a bit to get use to it? But it is more "Traditional" you could say? I use a evers stamp and hold it with my hand and hit it with a hammer.
Don't worry about missing and hitting your hand, you will only do that maybe a few times. Than you will not miss any more cause it really hurts when you do.
Good luck. - :thumbup:

Todd

Todd nailed it here, lol. I set the blade on a heavy bench plate, line up the stamp, use a medium ball peen hammer and give it a good whack. When stamping I stamp the blade before heat treat. When I use a stencil I apply the mark after the blade is fully finished, just before I do the final assembly of the knife.

 

[Patrickknives]

The answere to your first question "If both are equally good, why did you switch to a stamp?" because these guys are folder making gods!!!




I am pretty new and still use an etch, I would love to graduate to a stamp but I found to tackle one issue at a time and there are plenty to tackle. From my reading there is more than just giving a good whack, alot can go wrong and It takes time and skill to get a good consistant stamp. I built the etcher from plans posted on this site and it is inexpensive and works well. I will eventually get the experience and move to a stamp but etch for now.

 

[T.A.DAVISON]

The answere to your first question "If both are equally good, why did you switch to a stamp?" because these guys are folder making gods!!!




I am pretty new and still use an etch, I would love to graduate to a stamp but I found to tackle one issue at a time and there are plenty to tackle. From my reading there is more than just giving a good whack, alot can go wrong and It takes time and skill to get a good consistant stamp. I built the etcher from plans posted on this site and it is inexpensive and works well. I will eventually get the experience and move to a stamp but etch for now.

First I would like to say there is nothing wrong using an etcher to mark with - even on a slip joint. I always thought Ken's marks were done very nice and looked great.

And second - yes I stamped fix blade knives for 25 years before making folders. So I had plenty experience screwing up marks with a stamp. I never have used an etcher to mark my knives. For quite a while I stamped my nail nicks into my blades, that was a pain to do and not screw up the blades.
For the past todays I have knocked the pins out of a slip joint knife I've been working on 14 times trying to hide them. I finally went clear back to just the spring and blade to start over.
So don't think that we don't have screw ups? I guess Ken still does too?

Very experienced doesn't mean perfection all the time.......

TA

 

[EdgeCraft]

Thanks everyone!

 

[ken erickson]

So don't think that we don't have screw ups? I guess Ken still does too?

Very experienced doesn't mean perfection all the time.......

TA

This is one of the big challenges of making slipjoints, sooooo many ways of screwing up. I think most of us guys that make slipjoints have the scrap pile to prove it.

Thanks everyone!

YW. If you ever need to or want to please feel free to PM or email me with questions. I am sure Patrick,Todd and the rest of us makers here on BF are happy to share our knowledge when it comes to these difficult to make knives.