Stamping or Etching????

L6steel

L6steel

Joined
Sep 23, 1999
Messages
5,855
Which marking method does everyone here prefer? I bought a Personalizer way back when I first started out. Little did I know that the steel I was using, L6 of course, was acid etch resistant. I got rid of the machine and now I've ordered a stamp. Just wondering what you folks think!! Take care! Michael

------------------
"Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!"
 
I tried the etch thing sometime ago, and just thought it didn't look right on my knives. I stamp them now, unless there is a problem fitting the stamp onto the surface. For the money, stamps are more economical than etchers too. I recently order a new stamp from Henry Evers Company (the old one finally started to gall after 12 years, and at my best guess, around 500 knives worth.) Pretty good value for the money.
By the way, just read your profile, retired AF? Thats what I'll be in another three years!
http://www.mtn-webtech.com/~caffrey

------------------
Ed Caffrey
"The Montana Bladesmith"




[This message has been edited by Ed Caffrey (edited 07 October 1999).]
 
I use the etch method, it's been working fine for me. But I must say that I am considering a micro stamp to use on my folders. Someone say retired Air Force, Been that way for six years now.

------------------
Curtis Wilson -
Wilson's Custom Knives, Engraving, and Scrimshaw
 
THANKS FOR THE INPUT!! I HAD A FRIEND TELL ME IT HURT THE APPEARANCE OF MY KNIVES TO STAMP THEM.TAKE CARE! MICHAEL
 
Yep, I'm a stamping fan. I use a 1/16" stamp with my last name. It's small but will stay there forever. The stamp is better for me since I ceramic bead blast most of my blades. I use a Hermes trophy engraver for the nicer ones.
 
Never thought of that darrell, thanks! Kit, thank you!!!!!! I chose 1/16" letters when I ordered my stamp. whew! Thought I had messed up for sure. Anso, I thought of the stress theory too. Never found anything in my books about it though, so I figured it must not be much of a problem.Take care! Michael
 
I have always heard the reason, not to use a stamp is the stress's it puts in the blade. I beive it does put some stress in the blade, but have you ever seen a blade broken in the stamp?
 
I'd been told that the heat-treatment process should relieve any stresses from stamping. I don't stamp just because I can't get results I like. Individual block letters bore me and I always seem to get one a bit off-center, custom stamps can add up the $ really fast.

Start-up costs to electro-chemical etching are pretty steep comparatively, but after that stencils aren't too pricy. You get clean, complex images every time and you can do your mark after finishing, so you don't blur the image the way buffing a stamp can do. An added plus is I'm finding my Marking Methods power source also works well for anodizing Ti.

I've been very happy with the etches I've gotten, deep enough to catch your nail in and very clear. I wonder about some others I've seen, though. Most production companies and even some makers seem to do a "quickie" etch that is easily buffed off. I don't know if this is the result of a different system or just not enough care taken. All I know is that I'm proud of my knives, and I want a mark that stays. However you get that, etching, stamping, pantograph, etc... if it shows your pride, I figure that's good enough.

-Drew
 
DREW, I designed a stamp alignment jig a while back. When my multi-machine gets here, I'm gonna make me one, and if you want, I'll make you one also. I ordered a stamp for my logo, but I also put a serial number on the reverse of the blade, so I still need to use individual stamps. If it comes out good enough, I might try patenting it and selling them. LOL!! Take care! Michael
 
What a let down!! Got my brand new $92 logo stamp in yesterday, took it out to the shop to stamp a pair of bowies, and it didn't work worth squat. Are you supposed to use a press with those things? I just smacked it with my hammer like I always have with my single letter stamps, and it barely marked it. Actually looked more like engraving than stamped. Also, I couldn't get all the letters to come out. Take care! Michael
 
L6Steel,

I'm guessing that if you have a larger stamp than a single letter, that's going to spread out the force so much more is required. You might try using a little jig to hold it in place and really whail on it with a hammer, or maybe a press is needed.

I do still use single stamps sometimes, and a jig for lining them up would help a lot. I'll email you and we can work out some arrangement, I'd love to see what you've come up with and I can probably offer some money, work, or supplies in return.

-Drew
 
I like to etch my blades. I use KTFR for the resist. The stencils or art work can be made on the computer and printed onto clear transparency flim with a laser printer.

I started out stamping my blades one letter at a time. To get good alignment with the single stamps make a straight edge by stacking two strips of masking tape together and stick the tape to the blade where you what the mark. Practice on scrap a couple of times before you hit the blade.--Ray--
 
Ray, Corduroy, and anyone else who knows how to etch,

I was wondering what acid is used for deep clean etching? I'd like to do some big lettering, maybe "EQUALIZER" or something like that on my personal daily use tools. The gift shops and jewelers who do computer engraving can't do large items like knives and gun slides they say. Besides, when I send them away for 220 grit Al oxide blasting and refinishing, I don't know if the shallow engraving that I've seen of theirs would hold up. Would etching work? Do you know of good source for the acid/base and resist?

------------------
"But now, he that hath a purse, let him take it, and likewise his scrip; and he that hath no sword let him sell his garment and buy one." --Jesus Christ (Luke 22:36) See John 3:15- 18


 
I used to work for an engraving shop, and I did knives all the time. We used a panagraph style engraver, and I know that I could do gun slides as well, though I never tried. The engraving that we did would hold up to a heavy sand blasting, but I don't know about bead blasting. The company I worked for was Cole, they own Things Remembered. Check their smaller shops, most of the big ones have gone the way of the computer engravers. The smaller ones will still have the manual machines, which have much more versatility.

------------------
Oz

"When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt."
- Henry J. Kaiser
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top