Started a kitchen knife today!

Chiro75

Chiro75

Joined
Feb 4, 1999
Messages
5,786
I had a day off today (imagine that!) so I started a new knife project. I've probably made 4 knives since I moved to Michigan (all measuring under 4.5" OAL) and I had made 5 small ones before that, too. Not having a good heat treat setup I haven't gone for anything bigger, but I obtained a nice propane torch with the big "trigger" sort of tip setup, so between the three torches I figured I could get a larger knife going.

being that my main use of knives is in the kitchen, I cut a piece of hot rolled 1084 to around 7" OAL and set about making a "mini-Santoku". The stock is 1/8" thick and 1" wide, and I put probably a 2.75-3" blade on it. Double ground it on my 6" 60 grit bench grinder wheel (very roughly) then finished cleaning it up with a file. Not the most symmetrical thing ever, but it should do. Of course the edge will end up convex since I hand filed.

Drilled three holes for scales, sanded a tiny bit, then started firing it up! I about freaked during the heating because a piece of scale formed that was really bright right where I left the pencil torch too long, so I thought I had burned through! I was releived when I cleaned it up after quenching to see it was fine. Anyway, I quenched in oil and I could see a nice temper line right away after light cleaning. It's on its first cycle in the oven right now, sitting at about 380-390 or so. I'll do three cycles and throw some scales on tomorrow or whenever I get a chance to clean it up a bit. Since it's a kitchen knife I don't really want to put wood scales on it (I seem to have a problem with expansion), and I think I have a couple scales that are supposed to be stabilized birdseye maple which may work. How would I want to finish that type of material, anyway? I have tons of Micarta and stuff, too, but I want this knife to really get some attention when it's in use in the kitchen, yet still be tough. Any ideas?

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Steve Agocs, D.C.
http://www.geocities.com/Chiro75/frames.html


agocs_s@hotmail.com
 
It will slide through the material easier if the blade is highly polished. Buff it to a mirror sheen. A burgundy micarta handle would be very distinctive.
 
Idea #1 Make the scales out of 2 materials, and dovetail them

Idea #2 Make soem fancy mosaic pins! People stare twice as long when you tell them that YOU made them!

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"Come What May..."
 
I ended up using the birdseye maple. I don't think it was stabilized as I could feel the grain raise slightly after washing it the first time. I must have been confused about my wood supply as I highly doubt Barr would mislead me on it. In fact, I am certain he wouldn't. In any case, the knife is very rustic looking. I left a long choil and I left the unground part of the blade with the raw hot-rolled finish. The temper line is starting to come in nicely. This knife is REALLY sharp. That's what I am most proud of. All of my othe rknives have been so-so in that department, but this one rivals Spyderco factory sharpness! Wow!
smile.gif
Anyway, I have a bunch of mosaic pins I've made but I keep burning drill bits out in the large 1/4" sizes, so I went with three small stainless pins this time. I also don't have a setup for dovetailing bolsters, so it's a tough one to do. I dumpster-dove a nice Inca bandsaw a few months ago, but it has no motor and I'm retarded when it comes to that sort of thing.

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Steve Agocs, D.C.
http://www.geocities.com/Chiro75/frames.html


agocs_s@hotmail.com
 
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