Starter Grinder

T

tgw914

Joined
Aug 4, 2005
Messages
284
Can anyone suggest a grinder for a beginner. I'm going to start grinding some blades out of files and rasps and stuff. The grinder would have to be $100 or less. Do I want a belt grinder or a wheel grinder to start with, which is easier to use. Thanks.

Tom
 
Pay a visit to as many Sears stores in your area as you can - call the relatives and friends and have them do the same - see if you can score of very few remaining Sears 2x42 belt grinders. They don't make them anymore and you might be lucky enough to score this very nice starter grinder for under $100, especially if they don't have a box for it etc.
 
I know you probably don't want to hear this, I know I didn't and not listening cost me more than I thought it would. Save up for a Coote or Grizly. The Coote is a better machine IMHO, but the Griz is a little cheaper and has a motor. The Coote can use step pullies to varry the speed and has a decent selection of small wheel atachments. Even if you get a KMG later you can and will still use the Coote. Or else if your handy and have the time build a grinder. Try to stick with 72" belts if posible.

The sears 2x42 is not a bad grinder, but it's not realy that suited for knife work. I ground out quite a few knives on mine, but had to modify it a good bit, and not long after getting it the motor burnt up because it is not sealed. I wound up drilling the metric drive wheel out to accept a 5/8" shaft and a sealed motor and it's still working. It would make a good starting point to build a grinder if you only have to give a 100$ for it though. Just make sure it's a 1 horse, not a 1/2.
 
Will52100 is giving you good advise.I would add that purchasing $20 worth of steel from a supplier would be far better than using files and rasps.Try O-1 or 5160 to start on.At age 15 you can find someone who will hire you to do some heavy yard work or something to earn the several hundred dollars required for a started grinder(I wish you were down here,I've got lots of work I need a young buck to help with).Another good idea is to find a maker nearby.He/She will show you how to grind,and you can learn on better equipment.
 
rashid11 said:
It is 1x30 and is to be avoided. 0 power in it, however it is only $40 or so.
Click to expand...

Your right it is 1x30. It works good for doing some small things. I haven't had any problems with it.
 
A 2X42 Craftsman just popped up on ebay. Item number is 6026287560. If you can get it cheap, it might work out for you till you can get the money together for something better. Good luck to you.
-Mark
 
You are the age that I started making knifes.

This was my first tool and is still a mainstay in the shop.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=36402

If you mount a piece of 3/16th X 4 inch X the table length steel plate under the belt to raise it you can flat grind with ease.

The disc is for profiling a blade and when the table is raised the end roller will do additional profiling for shaping full and hidden tang knives. Both of these get a lot of use for handles also. Belts are readily available in various grits.

Jim
 
If you mount a piece of 3/16th X 4 inch X the table length steel plate under the belt to raise it you can flat grind with ease.

what is the best way to mount the steel plate?
 
jim moyer said:
You are the age that I started making knifes.

This was my first tool and is still a mainstay in the shop.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=36402

If you mount a piece of 3/16th X 4 inch X the table length steel plate under the belt to raise it you can flat grind with ease.

The disc is for profiling a blade and when the table is raised the end roller will do additional profiling for shaping full and hidden tang knives. Both of these get a lot of use for handles also. Belts are readily available in various grits.

Jim
Click to expand...

Ya, I would Like to see a picture of that. Sounds cool.
 
I just put the steel in place, drilled pilot holes and tapped holes in the sander table. Counter sunk holes in the plate and used flathead screws to attach the plate to the table. Leaves a flat smooth surface for grinding and when the plate gets wavy just change it out for a new one.

Happy New Year,

Jim
 
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