Starting out... best way to heat treat 1084?

[swamp]

I don't know if I should just build a homemade forge right now to save money, or buy an oven. If I do go the oven route, which is the better brands to choose from. Or actually the best to choose from. I plan on doing this for the rest of my life for a living, but don't want to spend a bunch of cash all at once. Thanks guys.

 

[Mitchell Knives]

If you plan on forging, you'd need a forge anyway. If you're doing stock removal, you don't need a forge.

I have an EvenHeat oven, and have been very satisfied with it.

 

[Dan Pierson]

The ability to get stable, accurate temperatures is important for heat treating, especially
if you wind up using pretty much anything but 1084. You can get these temps with
an oven (I have an Evenheat too) but you could also set up your forge with a PID
control system and use that. Stacy has posted plans and designs for doing this --
I think they're stickyed.

 

[duffy99]

Ghetto version that I did , slowly heat till non-magnetic test with magnet (1500fish) have 5 liters of canola oil in a quench tank or you can use ATF fluid if you have that kicking around , I used a deep disposable broiler thing from the supermarket , use a piece of heated bar stock to heat your oil just prior to quench you want it around 120f. In one fluid motion take your knife outta your forge and dunk it edge first into the canola oil . Agitate forward and back for a few minutes then wipe of the oil, canola oil doesn't smell bad in the oven but ATF would . Then toss the blade into a pre-heated oven at 375 to 450f and do 3 one hour tempering cycles letting it cool to room temperature in between. Do a file test and brass rod test and voila a knife that is most likely hardened . This is not a textbook way by any means , and if you read the stickies and use the search function and Google you'll find a lot more info.

 

[swamp]

Thanks guys I'm going to do the first few duffy99's way then buy an evenheat. Sounds good to me. Thanks again.