Starting over on botched knife

Joined
Mar 11, 2019
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Hi all, beginner knife maker here. I've finished a few knives and by far, grinding is my weakness. I recently picked up a Dayton 2x42, an upgrade from my Harbor Freight 1x30. The Dayton RPM is pretty high, something that I'm still adjusting to. I started a blade last summer and decided to adjust the grind but a number of factors - DIY jig wasn't set correctly, grinder RPM high, I was rushing - led to a burnt tip and ruined grind.

This blade is either 01 or 1084, can I just anneal and start over to make something new? Any risks in doing so?

I'm hoping to incorporate speed control on the Dayton if that's within the realm of possibilities, I have some research to do on that.
 
Pictures would be helpful.

When I mess up a grind real bad (to where I think it is too much trouble to easily even out the blemish) I just move onto the next step in the process to get more practice in finishing up a knife. I had a bad habit of leaving ruined blades unfinished and was missing out on practice making handles. Then when it’s done it goes into the drawer of shame and I move on.

You can always re-do the HT, but if you are unsure of the steel I would say just start over on a steel you are certain of.

Starting over is not fun especially if you spent a lot of time on the knife. But I find it more productive to focus on practicing not making a previous mistake, over trying to fix the mistake.

As for the grinder being a bit fast I can’t help you with how to slow it down. but I would suggest making a couple knife blanks to get used to the grinder before jumping into a full project. When I upgraded to a better grinder that’s what I did and found it pretty helpful with getting a better feel for it. Don’t worry about HT and getting handles on them, just try to get a feel for going slow on the rough grinding and making the bevels even.

- Kevin
 
If the blade wasn't heat-treated when you "burned" it, then the steel is almost certainly fine. Bladesmiths forge O1 and 1084 at much higher temps than you'll reach with your grinder and it doesn't burn.
Files are your friend for correcting oopsies. Sandpaper is your other best friend. (before HT!)
 
I'm hoping to incorporate speed control on the Dayton if that's within the realm of possibilities, I have some research to do on that.
Unfortunately the Dayton 120v "Single Phase Motor" Grinder was not built to accept a "VFD" for speed control. Save your Money and purchase a grinder specifically built to accept a Motor/VFD Combination.
 
you should not need to anneal if you start over. if the blade was not hardened before grinding you did not ruin anything by getting blue spots on the blade.
 
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