- Joined
- Jan 2, 2011
- Messages
- 1,286
So after getting set together with work and getting out of the field I have had more time to work on my first knife and I am currently working on finishing the blade and then the handle. However, after getting my hands on to it and working more I was kind of sad that I was getting closer to finish so I decided to go ahead and plan and start my second knife. So I started three weeks ago will working slowly on finishing my first knife.
I have decided that I really like the bushcraft scandi grind knives so I will try to make one of those with the files that I have. After using files on my first knife I learned some very good information on file work from trial and error as well as some help from the awesome guys here. I wanted to be more consistent with my file strokes and angles so I decided to make a file jig. It will make it so the angle is always the same and it will allow me to keep the file level. So I did some searching and saw some pictures and this is what I came up with.
After making this I set out on getting some O-1 steel and cutting it out and beginning what I found out to be the long process of finishing the outline and cleaning with files.
I settled on 5/32" thick O-1 and drew a traditional scandi bushcraft style and received some help from my friend who works in a robot shop with cutting out the blank with a band saw.
I used a Sharpie to outline the area that I wanted to cut up to and decided on a 10 degree "grind" angle. Now some people would say 12.5 degrees is the traditional and I would say that is what I have heard as well, but the reason I came up with the 10 degree is by doing some geometry and trig. to find out the angle that I needed for the drawn out area.
I did find out that by moving the blade off of the edge of my wood block that I use at the end of my jig allowed me to move up the knife spine with my file and then placing the knife edge back to were I started helped out a tremendous bit when trying to make the entire area of the "grind" the same angle when getting close to the stopping line. Using chalk and a file card more often also changed the outcome of big scratches.
So this is where I am with this knife. I figured there was no hurt in starting a new knife, it lets me do something a little different than the first and makes sure I have learned my tricks and tool work from the first. I will have to finish the first knife and learn the little tricks for the handle so that this knife's handle will be better than the first.
I will end up drilling more holes into the handle which will allow for better bonding between the two scales. Still need to start on the sanding of the flats as well. But I want to get to shaping the handle of my first knife before I get any further.
Thanks guys for all your help. Let me know what you think.
I have decided that I really like the bushcraft scandi grind knives so I will try to make one of those with the files that I have. After using files on my first knife I learned some very good information on file work from trial and error as well as some help from the awesome guys here. I wanted to be more consistent with my file strokes and angles so I decided to make a file jig. It will make it so the angle is always the same and it will allow me to keep the file level. So I did some searching and saw some pictures and this is what I came up with.
After making this I set out on getting some O-1 steel and cutting it out and beginning what I found out to be the long process of finishing the outline and cleaning with files.
I settled on 5/32" thick O-1 and drew a traditional scandi bushcraft style and received some help from my friend who works in a robot shop with cutting out the blank with a band saw.
I used a Sharpie to outline the area that I wanted to cut up to and decided on a 10 degree "grind" angle. Now some people would say 12.5 degrees is the traditional and I would say that is what I have heard as well, but the reason I came up with the 10 degree is by doing some geometry and trig. to find out the angle that I needed for the drawn out area.
I did find out that by moving the blade off of the edge of my wood block that I use at the end of my jig allowed me to move up the knife spine with my file and then placing the knife edge back to were I started helped out a tremendous bit when trying to make the entire area of the "grind" the same angle when getting close to the stopping line. Using chalk and a file card more often also changed the outcome of big scratches.
So this is where I am with this knife. I figured there was no hurt in starting a new knife, it lets me do something a little different than the first and makes sure I have learned my tricks and tool work from the first. I will have to finish the first knife and learn the little tricks for the handle so that this knife's handle will be better than the first.
I will end up drilling more holes into the handle which will allow for better bonding between the two scales. Still need to start on the sanding of the flats as well. But I want to get to shaping the handle of my first knife before I get any further.
Thanks guys for all your help. Let me know what you think.
