staying true to form

Daniel Koster

Daniel Koster

www.kosterknives.com
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Oct 18, 2001
Messages
20,978
As others have noted, I think Uncle Bill would want us to carry on as if nothing had changed.

I am doing so out of respect and honor for Bill.

And also, because I came up with a neat sheath idea I just had to share with everybody.

No need to eat up bladeforums' bandwidth - I put in on my website. Here's the link:

http://www.kosterknives.com/akbowiesheath.htm


And a teaser pic....:D




BowieSheath052.jpg
 
That looks great Dan. What size drill bit are you using? I do not know if I have ever seen that done but you may have just saved me. Many thanks and great work.
 
To quote JC Penney...."It's all inside"

:p


psst....5/64"
 
thats great Dan, thank you.
I have a question:
Sometimes my leather dye works really well in some little areas and not so well in others. How do I get even color?
Can the dark vs light areas be corrected?
 
Thanks Dan. Excellent photos and clear description. Thank you for sharing. I'll incorporate your ideas into my own leather.

Ice
 
Daniel Koster said:
To quote JC Penney...."It's all inside"

:p


psst....5/64"
Click to expand...


You know I looked and of course couldn't find it. You had it hidden very well up at the top like that... :footinmou


Thanks Dan
 
It's Mulberry, stabilized.

The Mug-n-Spoon on the website (under Misc in the Gallery) are Osage. The figure is indeed similar....


DIJ - dark vs. light areas

Unfortunately, that's part of having leather - certain parts take dyes better than others - even on the same piece. I try to stay away from dyes for this reason, unless they're very dark.
 
DannyinJapan said:
I have a question:
Sometimes my leather dye works really well in some little areas and not so well in others. How do I get even color?
Can the dark vs light areas be corrected?
Click to expand...

Yes Danny...it's called "black" then...
:rolleyes: ;)
 
Dan, I hope you are saving all of this wonderful information for your book someday.

~ B
 
i worked like a dog to make an historically accurate leather sheath for my Welsh Trench sword and then I tried to stain it brown.
IT worked except for two area in the middle that just went as dark as they could be and it doesnt look right.
IT sucks monkey mucus!
 
DannyinJapan said:
i worked like a dog to make an historically accurate leather sheath for my Welsh Trench sword and then I tried to stain it brown.
IT worked except for two area in the middle that just went as dark as they could be and it doesnt look right.
IT sucks monkey mucus!
Click to expand...


"doesn't look right" = extremely historically accurate, in many cases. Way back in the olden days, people used what they had, and tinkered with it until it worked. Whether or not it conformed to the Oakeshot Type XXIVM standard. :p :D

(Oakeshot is the sword bible, right? or did I get my brain cross-shorted again :rolleyes: )
 
I have had some problems staining leather. Found out that several applications of Neatsfoot Oil evened out the color very well.

Ice
 
I usually just finish leather with oil and beeswax. I have heard, but not yet tried, that a water bath will assist in dying leather. I have this from a reliable source,but experiment at your own risk!

Wet the leather to be dyed in a warm water bath for 5-10 minutes. Rremove from the bath, but leave the leather wet. Swirl the dye on with a lambswool applicator--swishing the water and dye together in all directions. After a few minutes, dunk the leather to wet it, and apply more dye. Dab off the dye and let it dry.

Supposedly, that will give the most even color possible. Of course, the dying should be done before the leather is shaped, stiched, etc. Has anyone tried this? (It sounded like a novel idea to me, but maybe it's old hat with you guys.)
 
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