Steel Barstock Selection For Hand Filing Knife

G

Gaijin_45

Joined
Aug 13, 2001
Messages
10
Hello Everyone,

I'm interested in knifemaking and I've been researching the topic on the web and also in the book, "How to Make Knives" by Loveless and Barney.

I'm in the process of assembling a couple of knives from knife kits. I've been enjoying it so much I would like to make my own knife from barstock.

Which type of steel would you recommend for building my first knife by hand-powered tools only (files, hacksaw, etc)? I've read that some steels are much harder than others and should only be worked with power tools and such. I have a lot of patience but I would like to finish this project before Christmas.

I live in an apartment and do not have access to belt grinders and other similar tools (except for a drill press which I do have access to and I do have a vise).

Thank you for your help everyone!

Best Regards,
Gaijin_45
 
I can tell you that I could not cut Hot Rolled 1095 with a hand hack saw.

Do you want stainless or carbon steel? Are you planning a full tang with scales or a stick tang with a mortise?

Also, you may want to look into some of the traditional Japanese methods using a sen, or scraper, which apparently worked fine by hand.

Mike
 
Welcome Gaijin

Stop now Don`t do it. Knifemaking is
a habit that you can`t kick:eek: but if
you must here is my take on it.
I would get some 1095 or o1 it`s cheap &
easy to work with files. I perfer 1095.
You can get it from Jantz in 9in. & 18in.
bars $2.00-4.00 for 1/8in.x1 1/2.? Just my opinion
 
Theres a few things you should think about, do you want to try and heat treat it yourself with a torch or send it out, I'm guessing send it out since your limited on tools. And do you want carbon or stainless. You'll have to go with a simple carbon steel if you want to heat treat it yourself, but you can go with stainless if your going to hire it done.
I would get something thats been blanchard or precision ground for the simple fact the the scale is off of it.And make sure its anealed. Some steels like ATS34 and 1095 as mentioned above, can get have a very hard skin left on them, or can be hard through out depending on the type of barstock. If its anealed, its soft and will work much more easily, and the absence of the black scale will make it easier to work with and mark on.
I've heard lots of good reports on people hand filing O1, which is a simple carbon steel and is pretty cheap. My main experience is with ATS34. It files and cuts prety easily provided you don't get it hot. It work hardens easily with power tools but hand tools should be fine. It makes a great blade too.
Stay away from the new super steels CPM440V and 420V and so on. they have such a high wear resistance even anealed that you won't be able to work with it.
 
Hello Mike,

Thanks for replying to my question.

Originally posted by Michael Bennett
I can tell you that I could not cut Hot Rolled 1095 with a hand hack saw.

Do you want stainless or carbon steel? Are you planning a full tang with scales or a stick tang with a mortise?

Also, you may want to look into some of the traditional Japanese methods using a sen, or scraper, which apparently worked fine by hand.

Mike
Click to expand...

Stainless vs. carbon steel -- well, I'm not familiar with the pros and cons of either; however, my project requirements are that the knife should be able to withstand the rigors of outdoor/backpacking use (cutting rope, some moisture, etc). I hope this helps.

I'm planning on a full tang with scales mainly because this is my only experience so far due to the kits that I'm currently working with.

Thanks for your help!

Best Regards,
Pete
 
Gaijin (Japanese for foreigner?)

I have a sections on my web site called Thoughts on Knives amd Making knives. You might want to glance through it. It's largely my opinion.

Stainless vs. Carbon - IMHO (:D flame away, all :D) is that, dollar for dollar, carbon steel will out-perform 95% of the stainless steels out there except in corrosion resistance.

Which do you care about more: a knife that rusts less (stainless) or cuts more (carbon?)

I personally like working carbon-steel, but I'm a novice maker.

You'll need to heat treat the knife as part of the process and each steel differs slightly in that part of the process.

Mike
 
Sylvester - too late. I'm already hooked :) Thanks for the 0-1 recommendation. The hand tooled example in the book that I mentioned previously was created from 0-1 barstock.

Matt - I'm planning on sending it out to be heat-treated. I have in my possession catalogs from Jantz Supply and also Texas Knife Makers Supply and they both carry the steels that you and everyone has mentioned so far.

This is pretty exciting. Thanks for the help!

Best Regards,
Pete
 
A good combination of edge holding and toughness is ATS-34 with Paul Bos heat treatment. Ats is a high carbon stain-resistant high performance steel. It is easy to work in the annealed state and can be hand rubbed or mirror finished after hardened. Also its harder to find a heat-treater that will do non-stainless anymore.
 
I've hand filed just one to be able to say I've done it. It was ATS34 and filed easily enough to not be a problem. I was done filing after just a few hours, not counting the profiling. It will cut quickly with a hand metal saw. Expect to break a few blades. It took longer to cut out and profile by hand than it did file the shape. Mine was very simple and it took a total of 10 hours or so. With even a minimum of hand tools you can be done by the end of next week, much less December.
O1 steel seems to file even easier.
Don't be intimidated, just dig in.
 
Everyone,

Thank you very much for sharing your experiences with me. I really appreciate it!

It looks like I'll be placing an order in the near future.

Best Regards,
Pete aka Gaijin_45
 
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