steel choice

Joined
Oct 26, 2005
Messages
14
OK heres what i got:
c-clamp
Wheel grinder (1/3 HP, 3450RPM) don't know the grit on my stones but one is coarse and the other fine
toaster oven (max temp 500 F)
Dremel (buffer, cutter, grinder, any @#&$ing thing i can use it for)
Hammer Drill Driver
Numerous clamps and other asundries (sand paper, files, drill bits, ect.)
have a propane torch but not really looking to forge

here is what i want to do:
Throwing knives ( both classic design, and bayonet design)
Throwing darts/spikes
Fixed blade daggers
Swords (way later)

Here is how i plan to do it:
Profiling :)

My question is in materials and any suggestions on spacifics in method(steps to take and what not.)
I am getting the $50 metal shop book. and i think this will answer alot of my questions I just wanted to hear anything spacific that the book doesn't cover you guys might recomend.

Spacifically what type of metal should i get and where?
And if you guys would recoment an easier or better source of info I would appreciate it.

Thanks for any help
 
every one round here prerdy much says go with O1 you ll be able to heat treat it your self and they say also it works/grinds well
for darts and spikes im not sure what steels come in rod form look for something like 5160 or a different spring steel type
butch
 
:D throwing knives
mild steel and rebar should work for those.

no reason to heat treat a throwing knife IMO.

you can get O-1 for the daggers at MSC Wholesale tool and McMAster Carr.

And don't let em scare you off useing the wheel grinder. Lot of old timers did.
It may be a little under powered but thats ok for now. :D
 
Throwing spikes are easy (well... it depends on what you want). All that you have to do is take several 10-12" nails/spike from home depot and modify them.
1. Saw off the head and whatever excess length there is with a hacksaw
2. Sand the nasty bumps all over the nails off, then smooth it down evenly (I did this with a file and sander atatchment for a drill)
3. File or grind down the point in the shape and sharpness that you want it to be
4. Score the handling area so that it won't slip out of your hand

I have 3 of these, and while they won't pierce a plank, they're plenty of fun with a few layers of cardboard. The tips will need re- pointing after a few days of hard play though.
 
I used to do a brisk business in throwing knives, and my favorite steel for them was 6150 (not a typo) and I did harden them, but tempered 'em back to about 520º don't know what the rockwell was... not very hard, but plenty tough!
 
Going on what Butch said...

check out the yellowpages (book or yellowpages.com) and find a place near you that makes automobile springs, preferably custom. a lot of places that make them get 5160 in large quantities direct from steel manufactuers. Make sure you ask them if it's annealed, or soft steel... if they actually make the springs (as opposed to just stocking them) it will be annealed.

5160 will make great throwing knives, daggers and swords and with some chimney cement and the torch, you can even differentially heat treat it and put a nice hamon on.

the benefit of using one steel is that you can learn the heat treat well and you'll know how it grinds and you'll find a good source for it. I think I paid around $2 per foot for mine and if you are cool with the guys that make the springs, they might order some round stock for you with your next order if you chip in on the shipping.

The big thing too is that you can pick the stuff up tomorrow from a local place. Call around and ask for pricing. Make sure you know the ballpark thickness and width that you want. The guy I got my stuff from, the owner of a custom shop, got such a kick out if it he showed me around his whole place while all the employees were working.

cheers
 
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