Steel choices

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Feb 16, 2009
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I was wondering what the advantage is of s7 steel? I am assuming it is a tool steel, is there better edge retention than a2? What about toughness ? I am thinking about ordering a tusker to replace my rat 6. Nothing wrong with the 6, I just like Scott's handles more and the convex grind. In the role of this knife , I'm more concerned with toughness rather than edge retention. I have put pretty severe bends in my rat 6 while battoning with it and it has never snapped, and it has always come back to true. This knife would be a primary backpacking knife for winter, so I'm literally staking my life on it, and was wondering what would be the best choice for this ?
 
Speaking from the point of having a S7 from Jeremy Horton (Hrc around 58?) and no disrespect on Gossman, the edge retention on the chopper isn't any closer to any parang or chopper i used often; S7 as an shock-resistant tool with such low carbon makes total sense that lower hardness and carbon % makes up for the much needed toughness. You could always sharpen it to shaving sharp but the retention just isn't there.
Both A2 and S7 are air-cooled steels and my noob guess that the silicone content on S7 made it resilient for shocks:

S7
Carbon 0.55%
Manganese 0.70%
Chromium 3.25%
Molybdenum 1.40%
Vanadium 0.25%
Silicon 0.35%

A2
Carbon 1.00%
Manganese 0.85%
Chromium 5.25%
Molybdenum 1.10%
Vanadium 0.25%

Large sections in certain air hardening grades will not develop full as- quenched hardness unless they are started in oil. This process is commonly called interrupted oil quenching. Simply stated, the tool is quenched into oil until the section just turns black followed by air cooling. S7, an air hardening -shock resisting tool steel, is a classic example of a steel which will not develop full hardness in larger sections unless it is given an interrupted oil quench.

http://www.gatewaymetals.com/news/heat treating.htm

Speaking of toughness you could opt for H13 which is really tough (I tried mine on a concrete and red bricks and it went through them like hot knife on butter) and if you want a toughness and edge retention look no further to old spring steels or L6.
 
I don't know where the video is, but one of Scott's blades was tested by Ron Hood on a frozen elk leg, chopping test, it was either O1 or A2. I just traded a 8" Tusker away, for another Gossman BTW, and have used 8" Tusker on chopping cherry trees (limbs), batoning, and did a one stick fire with another Tusker. The steel on the first is O1, the steel on the second is A2. Scott's blades are very tough, but depending on what you are going to do with the knife, A2 should be a great choice for you. Depending on what you are doing in winter, I wouldn't see any problem with A2. From what I have heard, S7 is incredibly tough. I have found that his handles are shock resistant and comfortable also. No hotspots or discomfort after prolonged use.
 
I've actually had good edge retention with S7. There is a thread on my forum about it. Grind and edge geometry plays an important role. A2 does have better edge retention then S7 but IMO, S7 holds it's own pretty well.
Scott
 
Cool, i will read that thread. I did a quick search on s7 and from what I gather it's supposed to be super tough, but from what you are saying you give up edge retention slightly. Have you ever done a bend test on s7 ? (I realize that I could order a tusker in any of the steels you offer and it would perform well)
 
Never did a bend test but I did shoot a test blade with a 41 magnum and all it did was dent the blade 1/4" up from the cutting edge, no cracks. It took the full impact of a fullhouse 41 mag. load, 1600 FPS, 210 grain Hornady hollowpoint. There's thread somewhere here on BF about it. I think the thread was "Are your knives bulletproof".
Scott
 
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