steel cutting band saw

RHINOKNIVES

Gold Member
Joined
May 6, 2000
Messages
6,495
hey guys i am looking for a vertical band saw to cut up 3/32" ats. i know about the one from harbor frieght, any others in the $200 to 300 price tag. any comments will be apresiated.


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Laurence Segal www.RHINOKNIVES.com
 
Pay more attention to your neighbors' garbage piles! I liberated a $700 Inca bandsaw from a garbage pile down the street yesterday! Unfortunately, no motor. I'll sell mine to you for $500 plus shipping. Ineterested?
wink.gif


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My Knife & Sheath Pages:
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Madpoet (Mel Sorg, Jr.) Tribute page:
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ciro75 were i live in santa (soviet) monica ca, i get a wealth of lamps, tables, chairs, and nearly new clothes to wear in the shop. but tecnicly you can swing a hammer in your own garage. so i dont get a lot of tools from the condos around my building.

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Laurence Segal www.RHINOKNIVES.com
 
Rhino:
I bought mine from HarborFreight about 5 months ago and after changing the blade to a bimetal, I have been very happy with it.

Marcel
 
Howdy There... Rhinoknives!
I ain't to sure how ya do thing out there on the coast, but I purchase my bandsaw at the local fleamarket for $100 bucks. It needed a little TLC and some cleaning, but it works great on 440C. It is a Dalton Shop Foreman model. Check out the local fleamarkets and see what you can find. Good luck in hunting.
"Possum"

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Thomas Clegg
 
Marcel

I just bough one and I'm less that happy but it's probably because I don't know what I'm doing with it. The blade that came with it is about 14 or 15 tpi and I'm sure it's big time cheap. I'm cutting blanks out of 3/32 ATS34 sheet. The blade gives a little 'thump' once each revolution which I presume is from the spot it is welded. It frequently stalls (at the blade joint). I've been over the tracking and I'm pretty sure I have that right. As for tension, the manual says tight enough to not slip. I'm running fairly tight - I think more will put undue stress on bearings. What kind of difference does a bimetal blade make and would I be right to assume that 14tpi is too coarse? Oh yes - I've tried 80, 120 and 200 speeds with little disceranble difference. I am using cutting oil. Thanks for any help you can offer.

Rob!



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Rob Ridley
Ranger Original Handcrafted Knives
 
Rob, I use a Milwaukee portable and I don't have any kinds of problems like that. I use a 24tpi bimetal and it cuts ats34, 52100, 1095 and D2, as well as all the handle and fitting materials I've thrown at it. The higher tpi and better blades might improve the performance, but even with a cheap, dull blade I've NEVER stalled it. If the better blade doesn't help, I'd call Harbor. You may have gotten a lemon.

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Oz

"I went to one of those so-called 'All you can eat' buffets last night, and I'm on to their little game.
They stop filling up the thousand island bucket after you empty it three or four times."
http://www.freespeech.org/oz/
 

Rob!

I had the same problem with mine. I bought a good bi-metal blade for it ($19) and now all is well. They sell those machines with the cheapest blades they can stick to them I believe.
 
Don't know the model but it was the one that sells regularly for $179 and it was on special delivered for $139. The blade it came with was lousy. I bought a 18 tpi bimetal blade and it has been great since. I run the saw on the slowest speed and do not even bother to use cutting oil.

Marcel
 
I also have the 179 dollar band saw from Harbor Freight and have been using it for 2.5 years. It works Grat but I made a sturdier table/workrest for it. The Lennox Bimetals are the way to go K & G sells them for around 25 dollars I think. I used my last bimeatal for 2 years before replacing it.

Arthur D. Washburn
ADW Custom Knives.
 
the blades you use are WAY more important than the saw you get....some of our thriftier friends here on these forums are going to be pulling their hair out for the rest of their lives .......
smile.gif


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http://www.mayoknives.com


 
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