Steel for a Battle Axe - advice please

Joined
Nov 11, 2011
Messages
1,398
I have a good friend and customer who wants me to make a Battle Axe for him. I’m a stock reduction guy who has done just a tiny bit of forging but if I had just the right piece of steel, I think I could pull this off. Any idea where I can come up with 4”x4”x 1/2” (or larger) block?

1084 would be great but I’ll try whatever.

Thanks

Steve
 
Are you planning on making a battleaxe head to be set in a wood handle or a completely steel axe with full steel tang?
 
If you're daunted by all that forging and driving an straight eye hole,I would be,I've seen a guy here forge great looking tomahawks out of ball pein hammers.kentucky I think his name is
Something to consider maybe
 
Is your customer planning on using This? If you forging why not forge it from mild steel and forge weld in a bit for the edge. This is a traditional way to do it. Nothing beats mild steel for toughness lol ;)
 
I have forged a battler ax from a cheap HF 3# cross peen hammer. I suppose you could forge a great big Viking ax from a 8# sledge or maul. Of course, this requires serious forging effort and/or a power hammer.

The alternative for a stock removal maker is to use 1/4" sheet stock and cut out the head shape. MIG/TIG/stick weld a piece of 1" black iron pipe to it for the poll/eye. A little clean-up with an angle grinder and some sanding will make the weld acceptable. Grind in a taper for the 2" to the edge. Heat with a torch or whatever you have that will get the edge to 1500F and edge quench in a couple gallons of oil. Make the handle from a new shovel shaft from Home Depot These are much heavier than a cheap shovel shaft). Add some leather grips and/or decorative paracord wraps to make the shaft more functional.

Other things that make it look good are making cut-outs in the cheeks in the shape of a four leaf clover/flowers, heats, runes, a moon, just circles, etc. You do this by drilling holes and filing/sawing the shapes.

The best finish is a sanded finish around 220 grit and a deep etch in FC. An alternative finish is to flame blue it. Another antique looking finish is the mustard finish.
 
Back
Top