Steel For Bowie?

Joined
Apr 6, 2001
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I am determined to start making my own blade. And since I have been bothering the shoptalk forum guys all day long I have a question for you.

What type of steel should I choose to make a bowie?
Any characteristics of steels given to me would be appreciated.

--Thanks
 
I've noticed a popular steel for long knives such as Bowies is 5160, chosen for its toughness.
 
Is corrosion a factor in your decision? If so I would recommend that you look at S30V. This is a tough stainless that holds an edge well, is not too difficult to sharpen and has good corrosion resistance.

If corrosion resistance is not important then I would think that 1084 would make a good choice. This is a fairly easy steel to work with. It is quite tough, sharpens fairly easily and holds an edge quite well. 1084 is as easy to heat treat as just about any steel. For all the reasons that I have stated, I think that 1084 makes for an excellent choice for a bowie blade.

What kind of experience level do you have? There are other steels that would make for great blades, but because of certain characteristics such as being harder to heat treat might be better used by someone with a fair bit of experience.

Give us as much information as possible. That way we can make more informed recommendations.
 
Price is a major concern, that comes out in the heat treat. Specifically "Do I have to send it to a custom maker? Or can I send it to a place that does 'Just' heat treatment?"
I have done handles on several blades and I think it is time to step it up a notch. I have a couple books on order, and a couple more coming for X-mas.
Can yall list sights to find good steel selections at?

I have been unsuccessful at tracking down this S30V. I am thinking about that cause I currently dont have a knife made of it, and everybody seems to love it. This is a project that will keep me busy for a few months, something other than school work. I have a dremal, hacksaw, files, and lots of elbow grease. Any suggestions would help.

--Thanks
 
Admiral here has S30V
http://www.admiralsteel.com/products/blades.html

Not sure if they offer it in shorter sections, you'd have to contact them and ask. 6' is probalby a bit much for a bowie though. :)

. I'm starting with O1 and 440C myself, and sending it off to be heat treated(the 440C). For air hardening steels, both Texas Knife at http://www.texasknife.com and Paul Bos will do heat treating for you. I know Texasknife does cryo tempering for a few bucks extra, not sure if Paul will. Don't have paul's contact info on me, but can get it by posting bakc over in shop forum. Figured since I didn't respond to your posts there could do it here. :)
 
I have always liked 5160 for large blades. I have made a half dozen or so largish knife/sword blades over the years. Cost was always a big factor, so I bought the 5160 at the local automotive leaf spring shop. You can get the stock fairly cheap at those places, cut to whatever length you desire. Good luck on your bowie!:D
 
How about 52-100 steel for a large bowie? The reason I ask is that I just recieved a Marbles Trailmaker which has "52-100" inscribed on the blade. They used to use 5160 for the Trailmaker, so I am wondering why the switch to 52-100? Is this good, bad, or indifferent?
 
All I know is 52100 is traditionally a ball bearing steel. It is one of the trendy steels out there. I dont know all the compareisons between steels, but maybe one of the experts can step in here.
 
I guess I answered my questions above by doing a search. It looks like 52-100 is a top choice in carbon steels for large Bowies, along with 5160 and L6. One member stated that it is not quite as tough as 5160, but holds an edge better and is easy to sharpen.

There was also a review of a (now defunct) Blackjack large Bowie made of 52-100. The owner was very impressed with it.

Now I need to know how many 52-100 Trailmakers were made, and do I have a user or a collectors item, worth countless millions to a Marbles fan like Buzzbait.:D
 
Too many conisder steel like they are all the same. Just like GM, Ford, or Dodge, there are elite lines of each steel, 5160, L6 and 52100, all have some economy models, as well as some top quality steel. Highly specked 5160 and top quality 52100 woked up by a bladesmith who knows what he is doing are as good as it gets. The best are tougher that anyone will ever need, the rest are a crap shoot.
 
I fully agree with Ed and personally think that 52100 when worked by a smith that knows the steel like he does, is the best steel that you could use. It is my favorite steel, period. I do not think you get the best out of 52100 unless it is forged.

Good luck with this project. I want to see how it turns out.
 
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