Steel for chip carving knife?

M

mleenhouts

Joined
May 25, 2010
Messages
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I am having my own line of chip carving knives manufactured and would like your recommendation on the best steel for these knives.

Here's some knife info:
-will be sharpened at 10 degrees or less
-.035 thickness
-your avg. woodcarver can sharpen the blade
-cutting in soft woods primarily
-hold an edge well

One mfg has mentioned S35V, another has said 154CM. I've read a bit about S30V (not good for thin edge blade?), ATS-34 and BG-42.

What say you and why?

thanks in advance,
Marty
www.MyChipCarving.com
866-444-6996
 
Frankly, for an edge that thin I'd be looking at CPM M4. It isn't stainless, but it is reasonably corrosion resistent, sharpens easily, holds an edge well and has good toughness. It is the only steel I've had what I consider acceptable results with at edge angles below 20 degrees included.
 
CPM154 - easier to sharpen than CPM M4 but will take an excellent edge and hold it well.
 
I'd second the M4 even though it isn't stainless (which doesn't matter to me). The reason is all about the edge. And M4 takes a very sharp clean edge.

154CM may work out great as well and it is stainless if that is what your looking for. But I haven't had any blades made out of it.
 
Since it doesn't have to be stainless, your requirements point to Hitachi Super Blue steel. It is used in high quality Japanese kitchen knives sporting high hardness (60+ RC) and acute chisel grind. It is also relatively easy to sharpen.
 
2 votes for CPM M4
1 vote for CPM 154
1 vote for Hitachi Super Blue

I appreciate the feedback to support why you feel this steel will be best for my chip carving knives.
 
Interesting thread, mleenhouts. I do the occasional carving (whittling with aspen and basswood, great stress reliever) but never did chip carving. I went to your site and enjoyed the videos. I may just have to try it.

My opinion about a wood carving knife is that blade geometry is much more important than blade steel. Also, I never have to sharpen my wood carving knives, a few passes on a strop is all that's needed to keep them going. They all have high carbon steel (being a wood carver I'm sure you know what I mean), none is stainless, and, perhaps most importantly, they are relatively cheap. If you go to the higher end steels, can you keep the low-maintenance requirements and the price competitive?

Other than that, my relatively little experience with high end steels and carving will do you no good because chip carving is different from whittling. But I found that S30V and ZDP in pocket knives chip too easily when carving wood. In bushcraft-type knives I've had good results with ATS34, VG10, and better with 3V (my current favorite), M4, O1, A1, and W1 (or W2?). Edge profiles were significantly larger than 10 degrees, though...

My suggestion is to have knives made with some of these steels, at least those that are affordable, and try them out in your carvings. And, since you are listening, I've looked for years for a full-tang wood carving knife...
 
Thanks, Cisco Kid.
I'm glad you enjoyed some of my videos on chip carving.
Thanks for the comments on S30V and ZDP chipping.
Interesting that you mention your current favorite of 3V. My prototypes are made with 3V and I've used them and had some others use them. It seems fine, but being a carver and not a knife maker, I raise this question as I'm wondering if there might even be a better steel than 3V for my needs.
Not an easy decision to make before production begins.
I think having other steel to try is a good idea.
And yes, all my knives will be full-tang knives!

Marty
www.MyChipCarving.com
 
Great news! I'll buy a knife from you for sure.

If you want to try other steels, others have mentioned M4. Great steel, better edge retention than 3V, but less tough (it is less tough than A1, but tougher than D2). If you want to be fancy, 9V would be outstanding, but I hear it is very difficult to work with (it eats up the grinding equipment).

I'm looking forward to see what you come up with. Good luck.
 
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