steel for making damascus ??????

B . Buxton

B . Buxton

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Jul 8, 2001
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OK, I just received a steel order from admiral steel, 3/16" x 1"- L-6 and 1095, Will this make a good damascus blade with good contrast, I don't have any nickel, hoping that the nickel in the L-6 would be sufficent. Do I need to had anything else? Which one of these steels should I put on the outside or does it matter? I figure 4 layers about 6 " long, does that sound like a good thickness and length. As you can tell I've never fooled with the damascus making procedure, but suspose to get together with one of the best makers in the state this coming week. I was just wanting to make up some billets and weld on some 1/2" rod for handles so we won't have to next week.

Thanks guys, this is all new to me and I'm like a kid in a candy store. :D

Bill
 
Bill, Yes that should be a good mix. The l6 is nicer to work than pure nickel. You will have a better chance of getting perfect welds. I use a press and can stack up lots of layers. I have never made damascus by hand. I know Im a wussy. I also dont use a handle, tongs work fine. You should talk to your friend that will be there and find out what he likes and his methods.

Damascus is fun!!!:)
 
Bill B?????,

Well I'm a long ways from an expert but here's the way that I would do it. Since I am fonder of l6 than 1095 I would star with a layer of L6 and stack on top of it either four or six more layers alternating between the two types of steel. Then I would squeeze the whole stack together as tightly as I could in a vise and weld the ends together. It also dosen't hurt to lay a couple of beads across the stack on the sides. This is to keep the outer layers from bowing as the stack heats up, although with 3/16 this shouldn't be any problem so the welds on the sides would just be insurance. After every thing is welde together then weld a handle on one end and you're ready to go. Stick it in the forge and heat to red. pull it out and flux. Return to the forge and heat to welding temp. When you think that The stack is hot enough take it out look at and put it back in the fire for about fifteen more minutes.:D The important thing is to make sure that the whole stack is hot all the way through. This seems to be the biggest problem with first timers and it haunted me for months. :o when she's good and hot all the way through then take the stack out of the fire and run a series of medium blows down the center, then up one side and then the other and put er back in the fire. this step seems to be the most important one to getting a good weld. On the second heat you can take the billet out and then you can HIT it turn it over and HIT it again then put it back in the fire. Resist the temptation to really work the billet over until the third welding heat. By the time you are finnished with your third heat you should have a good strong weld. you can check by hammering on the side of the billet. If your welds are good the billet will stay together.

Hope that you can follow all this ok. What I've written is by no means the last word but it works well for me:D :D so have fun.


Bill B????
 
Bruce, hes big on cable damascus, but he does it all, matter of fact thats all he does is damascus, been at it for several years, his name is Bill Wilus and he lives in the southern part of mo, I met him at the knife and gun show in August and we just haven't had a chance to get together until now. He told me to bring whatever I had and he would help me get started, he keeps telling me (on the phone) thats theres nothing to it. It should be very educational and alot of fun, I've been wanting to get into damascus for a couple of years now.
Bill B ????, Thanks, at least I'll have some idea of what I'm suspose to do.
I'll work on a billet tomorrow.

Thanks guys

Bill
 
I think Burke just gave the best advice I ever heard. After attempting time and again and having the damascus fail even though I thought I had everything right, I realized my problem. I was trying to fuse it in one heat and going to the fold right after that first heat. The steel would weld in the middle but be too cold for a good weld elsewhere.

My first good knife blade was the result of beating the he!! out of it in a series of heats and then going to the fold.

Good luck and have fun...it's addictive!!;)
 
It will make a good blade with good contrast. However, you technically have steels that are different in heat treating specs. The L6 is an oil hardening steel and is more forgiving in the quench speed. The 1095 is technically a water hardening steel, and requires a much faster quench to get the most out of the steel. Mixed together, you are going to have to compromise somewhere. Either you quench slow for the L6 and the 1095 does not get hard enough, or you quench fast for the 1095 and possibly get microcracking in the L6 from the stress of the too fast quench.

A better mix with the L6 would be O1, as both are nearly identical in heat treat.
 
I use this mix allot as I have a bunch of both at hand.The L-6 will give the shiny look just not as bold as pure nickel.But to start out with I would stay away from the nickel in the mix for a few billets at least.
Good luck and have fun,Don't worry about it or you will be scared to hit it correctly,just listen to your friend and have some fun with it.It is a journey you will enjoy from now on.
Bruce
 
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