Steel for newbie?

S

Stillhunter

Joined
Sep 15, 1999
Messages
5
Howdy,

Is there any reason why I shouldn't start making knives right off the bat with ATS 34? I'd like to use nice steel for any knife I make, even if I'm learning. I realize I'd probably have to send it out for heat treat, but that's ok.

Is there another steel that might be better? I'd like to use one that is really nice, but doesn't have weird qualities that will muck up the learning process.

Thanks,
Stillhunter
 
I think if you're looking to do stock-removal and leave the heat-treatment to someone esle, ATS-34 is an excellent steel to start with. It's not terribly expensive and its grinds very cleanly. It wears belts a fair amount, but not like D-2. 440C is cheaper and also a very good performer (I think its bad rep is based on low-quality factory pieces), but I find it gets hot quickly and just grinds unpleasantly, not as sharp or clean a feel as ATS-34. I started grinding 440V recently and foundd it surprisiongly well-behaved, but it's generally 2x-3x the price of ATS-34. The only real downside to ATS-34 is the hard black coat the barstock comes with - just use a worn belt to take this off. It's like an incentive to put a nice finish on the "flats."

-Drew
 
If you're interested in the learning process, may I suggest 1095. It isn't stainless, but you can heat treat it your self with MINIMAL equipment, So you get to learn about heat treating.
Also compared to ATS-34 it's dirt cheap which allows you to feel more free to experiment, and make mistakes. And if you ruin a piece, you're only out two or three bucks as opposed to ten or fifteen.
I figure once I've learned how to grind well and start producing some really good work , then i'll switch to the fancy stuff.
Good Luck & happy grinding!
Happycat
 
I don't agree with Happycat. Stay away from your own heat treating until you have mastered knifemaking. this is difficult enough for a new maker without taking on an extra source of frustration.

Go with ATS34 or 440C and have someone else heat treat it, at least at first. I have been making knives for 10 years and still have no desire to heat treat myself. I like concentrating on making a good looking knife that performs well.

------------------
george
www.tichbourneknives.com
sales@tichbourneknives.com

 
I tend to agree with George on this. If you're not comfortable with the heat, don't mess with it. The only reason that I mess with heat treating is because I forge. Since I'm playing with the fire anyway, I learn more about the affect of heat on steel as I go anyway. If you aren't forging, it's also a tougher setup to get. Keep it as simple as possible while starting out. The less you have on your plate to learn, the more completely you'll learn what you have.
 
I do not know much about stainless. I have avoided it because I like doing my own heat treating. After I get better as a knifemaker, then I could justify having to pay for heat treating. If you want to go the non-stainless route, try the following:

I purchase O1 from Rex Supply or similiar supply houses. It is much cheaper and the exact same thing you would get from a knife supply place.

5160 can be purchased very cheap for spring manufactures. Just look in your local yellow pages. This stuff is great for larger knives and hatchets, etc.....
 
Thanks for the advice everyone.

I really do want to learn heat treating, but just don't have the equipment right now (still trying to outfit/build a darkroom and a woodshop). Also, I have yet to find a really nice text with deatiled instructions on heat treating/quenching etc. Esp one that delves into different steels. Any recommendations are welcome. I am currently reading Boye and thought about getting the Loveless video.

So I guess I'll start with ATS 34. Any advice on machinery? Is that Grizzly knifemakers station a good deal or is there a better value out there (or something that just works better)?
I guess from what I've read, I need at least an 8" wheel grinder, and a belt grinder?
I have a drill press, and all other large wood tools.

TIA,
Stillhunter

PS-this is a great group. You guys are really friendly and helpful.
PPS-I forgot to mention, the knives I am interested in making are stock removal, 7-8" w/ 3-4" fixed blades. Dozier and Lovelessish (until I can make my own designs-I like Jens Anso's designs-really cool, esp the frog hunter!)

[This message has been edited by Stillhunter (edited 16 September 1999).]
 
Thanks for the advice everyone.

I really do want to learn heat treating, but just don't have the equipment right now (still trying to outfit/build a darkroom and a woodshop). Also, I have yet to find a really nice text with deatiled instructions on heat treating/quenching etc. Esp one that delves into different steels. Any recommendations are welcome. I am currently reading Boye and thought about getting the Loveless video.

So I guess I'll start with ATS 34. Any advice on machinery? Is that Grizzly knifemakers station a good deal or is there a better value out there (or something that just works better)?
I guess from what I've read, I need at least an 8" wheel grinder, and a belt grinder?
I have a drill press, and all other large wood tools.

TIA,
Stillhunter

PS-this is a great group. You guys are really friendly and helpful.
 
Of all of the steels out there to try, I would start with 5160. It is easy to grind, file and sand. It is forgiving in heat treat and cheap. It finishes to mirror, if you want it to. You can heat treat with a torch or easily find a shop to do it. It can be edge hardend. It can be forged. It is just a good all around steel.

------------------
Ron Ruppé
www.ruppe.com/Knives/index.htm
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top