steel for stock removal

Joined
Jan 31, 2003
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New to it it all, but have most tools I need.... I think. But not sure on what type of steel to use. I got band saw, 6" bench grider, bunch of files and a drill press. There are just so many types of steel I'm confused on what to use.
 
i started with o1 and 1095 carbon steels. i use almost all stainless now.154cm,BG-42,440c, s30v. i stared with carbon and heat treated myself with some fire bricks and a napp gas torch to learn the basics. i prefer to use S. steels now and send them out for HT. i am sure others will chime in here!
 
My advice/experience is going to be along same line as Rhino, though I haven't finished a SS one yet. Even so though, don't htink I'll ever leave the high carbons completely. I like having a hand in the heat treat(actually, do it all myself ont he carbons). Just because that is so important to the blade, I like to be able to do it myself. Even though I'm sure that my work isn't up to a Paul Bos or someone. But keeps improving. :)

So yeah, i'd suggest O1 or 1095, easy to heat treat yourself.
 
O1 is a wonderful steel to begin with, and I don't just mean as a beginner steel either. It can make a great edge holding blade. It is relatively easy to heat treat and done properly can hold its own with some of the best. One anomoly of O1 is it turns color when subjected to water; almost immediately. Allow for that and keep it protected from rusting and it will make a superb hunting blade. O1 is rather inexpensive and readily available. I suggest purchasing it 'hot rolled and precision ground'. That way it will be easy to grind and drill, straight, and without pitting.

BTW, Rhino is also very experienced with ATS-34 (the fore-runner of 154CM) - he specilizes in kitchen knives and I have asked his advise on several occasions.

RL
 
I don't mean to be too picky but <SOAPBOX> want to mention that 154CM is the original; ATS 34 is the Japanese version of it. ATS became so often used that I believe Crucible may have backed off on production of 154CM. Perhaps it's becoming more widely used again because of exchange rates? Or maybe because the Japanese economy sucks even worse than our own? Dunno really. But I have a warm spot in my heart for 154CM because the very first custom knife I ever saw or heard of was a Loveless made in it. Such an experience will never go away... </SOAPBOX> :D

Dave
 
Dave, once again we have the same outlook on things.

Anok, unless your going to do your own heattreat (or have a pal that does) you'll need to go with airhardening steel: D2, ATS-34, CM154, 440C, S30V. Getting those hardened is easy - lots of places.

Here's another vote for ATS-34 (or CM154 if you can get it).

The 'normal' size for my work is 1/8" by 1.25" by however much.

Steve
 
Originally posted by ddavelarsen
I don't mean to be too picky but <SOAPBOX> want to mention that 154CM is the original; ATS 34 is the Japanese version of it. ATS became so often used that I believe Crucible may have backed off on production of 154CM...... Dave


The reason for the popularity was because, when the government removed 154CM from the spec roles, the company(s) making it here, quit vacuum smelting it, I guess to save $$.
As a consequence, it got a nasty reputation for inclusions, pinholes etc.(it happened to me a couple of times in the early 80's).

ATS34 was all that 154CM was(vacuum smelted etc.), but less expensive.
I don't know if any of it is made that way now.:confused:
 
I'll vouch for 1095 as a great starter steel. It's easy to heat treat, holds a great edge and is a forgiving steel to grind. I use several different steels now but, I still use 1095 and love it.
 
There are so many good steels out there. My top three would be
5160
5160
and 5160
:)

01 and 1095 are good too.
The evershine stuff is just a fad and will never catch on!:D
 
Make sure you buy precision flat ground stock. You'll save yourself a lot of work right there. Koval and most of the knifemaker suppliers have small amounts of steels. You can try several. D2 is a real drag though!
 
My dad started with 01 since a local knifemaker here was helping him and thats what he used... He has since switched to 1095 heat treated by us, and A2 and 440C heat treated by Paul Bos. He is looking at trying ATS-34/154-CM in the near future though.

He doesn't have any complaints about grinding any of them, and they hold up realy well in use around here.
 
If you have a oxy-act. set up or a small forge, you can heat treat 440C at home also. This of course is if you want to start with stainless. Ed Fowler posted the method a couple years ago of triple quenching 440c in oil to get the same results as an oven. It works wonderfully. I had great results and still do 440C this way.
 
Thanks for all the info!....My buddy gave me a bunch steel. All diferent..Hot rolled, Cold rolled, and one small piece of high carbon.
Well thats at least what he called them. I started to work with the hich carbon. But don't know if the other stuff is any good to use. SO if you guys have any info on that would be great.
 
Anok,

Free steel is like a free horse. It ends up being very expensive.

First you have to answer this question:

Are you going to heattreat your own stuff?

Then, you can get some specific answers.

If you are, then you can play with some of that steel before committing to a blade. If you aren't, then don't use any of it.

Steve
 
O1 154CM and 1095 in the pecking order for me.
I believe ATS34 is made in the states now and
has been for some time
I'm hearing problems with the ATS34

it's very hard to get the 154CM PG and that
makes for a big lack of sales because it's just easier
if you can get a steel PG not everyone has a surface grinder.

yes 154cm is harder to use because of that main reason I think,
I hand sanded it before I got a surface grinder and i could have
use the ATS34 BUT I try to buy American first :)
and sell American made..after all I sell them mostly to Americans:)
 
If nothing else, that cold & hot rolled steel will be good for practice work. It's much easier to practice on steel you didn't have buy, I'd think.
 
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