Steel protecting treatment?

blgoode

blgoode

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Oct 3, 2003
Messages
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I have been using mainly 0-1 and was wondering what type of protection treatment I can put on these blades? At this point I have been etching them slightly and have even blued one. Is a light etch and oil all the options? I am not looking for a shiney polished blade at all but didn't know what else there might be out there...............
 
blgoode said:
I have been using mainly 0-1 and was wondering what type of protection treatment I can put on these blades? At this point I have been etching them slightly and have even blued one. Is a light etch and oil all the options? I am not looking for a shiney polished blade at all but didn't know what else there might be out there...............
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Typically, I use Rennaisance Wax on carbon blades as the final protective treatment. Aside from the aesthetic appearances, bluing and such only provide marginal protection against corrosion. A good wax seals any surface irregularities in the metal and keeps out moisture.
 
If I understand correctly you are asking for different finishes for your blades. If that is correct you have already done everything I can think of except hand finish where you leave the 600 grit scratches all running the same dirrection and mirror polish.
If you are asking how to protect your blades from rust you can try what I do. Someone on this list gave me the formula for making my own wax. Just mix equal parts of bees wax, linseed oil, and mineral spirits. When heated (double boiler for safety!) and cooled slowly, so they don't seperate, it makes a better rust inhibiter than the best and most expensive waxes I have tried. Steve Bloom has done an experiememt where plain bees wax was the best but it's hard for me to apply.
Lynn
 
A light surface patina (that is not rust) will help protect the blade. Wayne Goddard was touting the benefits of a mustard finish a few issues back in Blade Magazine. Dab mustard on in little splotches, let it sit for an hour, wipe off, repeat - until you get the look you want.

Comes off real easy at the buffer, though.


What I'd like to know is how Chuck (Wild Rose) and Gib get their "aged" finishes on their blades. That - I would really love to know.
 
Daniel Koster said:
What I'd like to know is how Chuck (Wild Rose) and Gib get their "aged" finishes on their blades. That - I would really love to know.
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Bleach I think.
 
Lanolin is proported to be a very good metal protector.

Actually a very good protectant is right under your nose: chapstick. It's a combination of wax, petrolatums, and lanolin. Besides it's non-toxic.

I use an even mix of beeswax, mineral oil, and anhydrous lanolin. I use it on the blade, handle, everything. Rub in, rub off.

Steve
 
Thanks Guys.

I had most of the info huh?....

What I am going to do is to heat everything with a hairdryer and rub in beeswax. Then just use mineral oil or something......

What ever is free ;)...or close to it of course :D
 
BL,

mineral oil and wax will mix just fine. Just melt wax in mineral oil and stir. They'll stay together as it re-hardens.

Sounds like you don't believe me about chapstick. ;) Just rub it in with your fingers.

Steve
 
Oh...I forgott the chapstick........ ;)

I have rubbed it on a leather sheath before. In a pinch for mink oil....but it worked.
 
Lets see now, that's anhydrous lanolyn, (already have the anhydrous borax which I don't need for this), and chapstick (Steve said to get this from under your nose), mink oil, mineral oil, a hairdryer and mustard. Ok, I'm all set. Better not take my wife with me when I go to the store though.
 
Since I got married.......I have been told that her hair dryer is off limits.

"The last time you used it there was crap all over it ;) " - my wife
 
What I'd like to know is how Chuck (Wild Rose) and Gib get their "aged" finishes on their blades. That - I would really love to know.
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I believe they blue it first, then use bleach.
 
AwP- I'll be tring to age my steel some in the future............let you know how it goes.

I will try bluing and bleach.
 
Sounds good to me - seems like I did hear that somewhere before.....also that there's a special technique employed in "brushing" the bluing on, rather than dipping, etc. - can anybody confirm?
 
Actually my appology, the post I was thinking of actually was refering to non-ferrous metals, it might still work on steel but I'm not sure. This is what I was thinking of.

Do a search on google.com for copper patinas and you'll find a whole bunch of places that sell stuff that will do it. One place sells different mixes for different patinas and it one is based on Ferric Chloride so you might give that a try.

"Fuming" with bleach or ammonia (DO NOT MIX THE TWO) also works.

I've been using Birchwood Caseys' SUPER Blue (not the perma blue) and it works real well. You can get it at most any gun shop. While still wet with the bluing wipe on a coat of Bleach and it will give you different colors.
__________________
Chuck Burrows
Hand Crafted Leather & Frontier Knives
dba Wild Rose Trading Co
PO Box 5174, Durango, CO 81301
chuck@wrtcleather.com
www.wrtcleather.com
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I rust tested some O1 a few years back comparing waxes after reading a Goddard article in Blade (I was using Rennaisance Wax at the time):

#1 Bri-wax (mostly bee's wax and carnuba with some solvents to keep it soft until applied)
#2 Bee's wax
#3 Johnsons paste floor wax (very close to Bee's wax)
#4 Rennaisance Wax

Pure bee's wax may in fact be better than briwax but I couldn't get it to apply as nicely as briwax. I also thought the luster of briwax was slightly better.

Bri-wax is about $12 a pound, Rennaisance wax is $25 for a few ounces. Just do a Google for briwax and you'll find a dozen places to get it. I've never seen it in a store. I've started to throw in a small amount (in an 35mm film canister) with knives I sell now just to get a client started on it.
 
You can get Briwax at Woodcraft outlets. I love the stuff - use it on everything. Does a great job, but needs reapplication. (vs. etching)
 
I like the Ren wax because it reportedly has the correct Ph for museum resorations and preserving antiquities. Sounds like a little BS to me, but if its good enough for the London Museum its good enough for my knives. I use Johnson's on all my equipment surfaces, i.e. my table saw, drill presses, lathe, etc.
 
jhiggins said:
I like the Ren wax because it reportedly has the correct Ph for museum resorations and preserving antiquities. Sounds like a little BS to me, but if its good enough for the London Museum its good enough for my knives. I use Johnson's on all my equipment surfaces, i.e. my table saw, drill presses, lathe, etc.
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Neutral shoe polish.

(And yes, we used it for floor wax in boot camp.)
 
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