Steel Recommendations for next batch

H

hugeo

Joined
Jan 8, 2009
Messages
53
Greetings

I know this kind of like asking what's your favorite beer but hopefully I can narrow down responses by being specific enough in my intended use. Thanks in advance!

Looking to get 1/8 and 3/32 thickness.
3-5 inch blades (most under 4 inch).
Wood, kitchen, game, EDC (plastic etc) use in that order.

Simple hunting, EDC, B&T, paring type designs.

These will be sent out for heat treat. My first batch was 1095 and worked out ok but this time around I want something stainless or close (perhaps D2). Thinking of just profiling before sending to HT then can just finish them up as time allows.

Thanks for the feedback
 
You're not kidding about "what's your favorite beer" type question.

So it sounds like you're new to the game? I'm sort of in your shoes as I'm getting back into it after having been gone for over ten years. There's lots of new steels to try out, for sure.

I've recently finished some tests on Elmax and AEB-L. I recommend AEB-L for initial stainless knives one main reason: it's much easier to work with. The second reason is you can get a great looking machine or hand finish. Vanadium steels (like Elmax and my old S30V) are really hard to put a finish on. It's more frustrating than satisfying working with those steels. And you're always wondering what the heck is wrong. Also, the size and thickness you're talking about is a great size for an AEB-L blade.

My test blanks with AEB-L were great in hardness and snap tests. I was able to put on a razor edge, then pound the edge into 1/8" mild steel. No problem. I had to hit at odd angles to bend the edge over. The same attributes that make it easier to finish means it's easier to resharpen too. My Elmax knives (for me) require a trip to the grinder to resharpen.

I'm working on a 6" blade where I profiled only before heat treat. Yeah it took a while to get the bevels in without overheating the steel. But it's possible. I wouldn't even try that with one of the 'super steels'.

Anyway, I'm going to finish some more knives in AEB-L, before I get back to the frustrating work of finishing Elmax blades.

Just my $0.02. Looking forward to hearing other ideas.
 
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If you want D2, go with CPM-D2. Regular needs too obtuse an edge to hold onto the large carbides, and is quite low on the toughness scale.
If you want a more wear-resistant carbon tool steel, try A2. Not near stainless, but somewhat more resistant than 1095.
Or yeah, AEB-L is a great choice in stainless - just run it reasonably hard, like 61-62 unless you need it to take a serious pounding.
S35VN is a real performer too, but expect a substantial increase in materials cost.
 
M390, or zwear if something tougher is needed
 
I recommend CPM-S35VN. It performs very well in knives made to cut. Edge holding is extremely good. Peter's does good HT on S35VN.
 
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