Steel stud metal grade

R Dockrell

R Dockrell

Joined
Mar 26, 2000
Messages
658
I have a chance to aquire about a ton of 2inch by 12 inch studs. I was told they were the highest grade avaliable. So I took one and forged the end of it down to about 1/8 buy 1 inch. Put a convex saber grind on it and heated it to none magnetic and quenched it in cold oil (didn't bother to heat oil was in a hurry). Cleaned it up with a 80grit then went to 220 then to 400 to put an edge on it.
It shaved hair, then I cut 40 strips from a cardboard box, it still shaved. Then I put it in my vice and it snaped like a glass rod.
Any Ideas as to the kind of steel used in high grade studs??? It was never tempered or normalized in my quick test.


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Robert
Flat Land Knife Works
rdblad@telusplanet.net
http://members.tripod.com/knifeworks/index.html
 
Robert: Those are the eyeletts from my running shoes. Never mind what kind of metal they are, as I'd like them back, please!

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"Come What May..."
 
Bruce
They are like huge bolts without a bolt head. Short allthreaded rod. They also had a fairly good secondary burst on the spark test that I noticed while grinding. The break also had a very fine, smooth grain. I had to use a loop and a magnifying glass together to see any grain structure at all.
They are used in the pipeline industry to hold joints and valves in place that may have to be changed. Used instead of welding.
Crayola
Next time I see you I'll tie a couple of these to each foot and we'll see how far you run!

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Robert
Flat Land Knife Works
rdblad@telusplanet.net
http://members.tripod.com/knifeworks/index.html

[This message has been edited by R Dockrell (edited 05-01-2001).]
 
Look at the end of the stud and there should be a number and letter combination stamped into it....if there is, post the number or email me and I will look in the ASTM Material Specifications and tell you the material properties...

Jaye
 
Was LL7 on the nuts or the stud? I'm not familiar with the "double L" Grade designation being on studs....so, please double check and see if the other end of the stud has a different number or further markings...one might just be a manufacturer's marking. So you know, I've got data for L7, L7M, etc....the addition of the other L might just mean that it's the symbol of the manufacturer.

Do you know what these studs were used for? (sour service, high pressure steam, etc?)
J

 
Dont know what kind of steel they are, but if they were properly tempered, it sounds like they would make a pretty good blade. Let us know how they work after tempering please.

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Danbo, soul brother of Rambo
 
The designation should have been a single letter and number combo according to ASTM A320, so I can only assume that the extra L is a manufacturer's mark of some kind.

Here is the composition for a marking of L7 (which more likely than not, you have) which is classed as a Ferritic Steel, Chromium-Molybdenum (AISI 4140)
Percentages
Carbon 0.38-.48
Manganese 0.75-1.00
Phosphorus, max 0.035
Sulfur, max 0.040
Silicon 0.15-0.35
Nickel ...
Chromium 0.80-1.10
Molybdenum 0.15-0.25
Boron ...

I don't know enough about steels to tell if this is good for knives or not, but I'm sure somebody on here will know....

J
 
No worries.....if you do some further analysis on it, let me know what it is.

I double checked with the resident Materials expert here at work and he still thinks it is 4140.....go figure?

good luck with it....hope it works for you.

J
 
What an engineer would want in a stud bolt is toughness and tensile strength. I would be real surprised if it was something with a higher carbon content.

A friend of mine used to do maientenance at a boeing plant they had some srap 4140 they made knifes from, said it made a pretty good knife, not really sure what that means.

4140 would make great hammer heads, or gun barrells.
 
OK for those inquiring minds that need to know.
The steel studs tested out as 4145.
.46 Carbon
.86 Chrome
.23 Nickle
.317 Moly
The question is will this make a good adition into damascus with 52100 or 1095?
Is there enough nickle to stop carbon migration?
Would it be be good on its own for big blades? I am told it is similar to punch and chisel steel at RC53-55.
Anyone got any heat treat specs?

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Robert
Flat Land Knife Works
rdblad@telusplanet.net
http://members.tripod.com/knifeworks/index.html
 
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