Steel Type Marking on Custom Knives

D

Dew

Joined
Jan 25, 1999
Messages
188
Hi Folks,

I come up with a topic to discuss/ask your opinions. Custom makers may think of it as a buyer's feedback.

Nowadays custom buyers are more selective on the steel types and there are a lot of them (one could say you 're a knifenut if you can keep track of the CPM running number
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). Some new "superior" steel could cost significantly more. ex. CPM3V vs. ATS34. And heck if you give me a knife with no marking and don't tell me I accept I cannot tell.

Bob Dozier is one among not so many who always marks the steel type on his knives, ususally somewhere on the tang area. I see RJ Martin has it on some models. I think it'a good practice that really gives buyers like me some peace of mind. This doesn't at all mean I don't trust makers and dealers, most of whom I respect more like good friends. It would help me, however, when I buy from less-known individuals or when I decide to sell my knife later on. (I can't say to the buyer "Hey, it's CPM3V. If you don't believe, leave it outside for a night and it will rust."
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).

I don't know whether other buyers are with me on this. What do you guys think? Does it reduce artistic value of the knife? (looks more like a production piece) or makers is it impractical for some reason?

Dew.





[This message has been edited by Dew (edited 08-26-2000).]
 
The idea may catch on at some point in the future. As for me a maker, I will gladly tell you what the steel is. After all honesty is the best marketing tool custom makers have if they want to stay in business.
If a maker shoots you a line of crap, it will not be long 'til word gets around and then by by sales.

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old pete
 
I don't think it is necessary for a custom knife to have the blade steel marked. The customer should already know about all the materials used in its creation. If they don't, they should.

I do wish more custom knifemakers would take the time to write, sign, and date a description of the knife and a bit about its making on a card to be kept by the owner. I think this adds a more personal touch to the purchase of a fine knife. Marking the steel is unecessary, but I would not be upset by such a practice.

I know what the materials are in each and everyone of my twenty custom knives. That's part of having a collection.

Paracelsus
 
Seems like I couldn't make my point clear. I sure know the steel because most of the time I choose it.
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It's the most important criteria in all my purchases.

I for sure can trust all makers in this forum. Matter becomes more complicated when I want to sell one, say 10 years later. How much would the buyer trust me? So I don't think it hurts for a knife with expensive steel to have marking on it. Anyway I respect your opinions.

Dew.
 
I generally get a letter from the maker (or the seller) describing the knife in as much detail as possible. Different makers mark their knives in different ways. Jay Hendrickson puts the type of steel he used on the back of the sheath. If you're having a knife made for you, the maker will probably put the kind of steel used on the knife if you want him to. I personally wouldn't want it on the knife itself.
 
I agree with Dew.I must be sure what steel is being used before I decide to purchase.In the secondary market it is sometimes very tough if not impossible to tell what the steel is if it is not marked.
 
I mark (almost) all of my knives with the German Materials Number for the steel and with the US equivilent for that stel. Example: D2 1.2379 The only knives that don't get marked are those made from Damascus and those made from RWL-34. I haven't gotten around to ordering a stencil for those yet. ALL knives I make come with a signed and dated card listing the knife model, date, sheath, steel type, Rockwell hardness.

I think it's important to mark the knife with the steel type because a knife will - I hope - be around for a long time and may change owners over the years. This way if the card gets lost anyone can see what type os steel was used and take care of the knife accordingly.

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http://www.wilkins-knives.com
http://www.wilkins.de
 
I like the idea of a card or certificate. I have a couple of knives that I have to go back and look up the name of the handle material quite often because the wood comes from the orient and I can hardly pronounce it let alone remember it. I have the printed out email correspondence with the maker so that I have something to refer to.

I asked two well known makers for a card or certificate or whatever you want to call it and was promised one but nothing was ever delevered. I guess they do not have time for such things.

I have purchased several from individuals that other than obvious things like stag handles there is no way to tell steel types or handle material.

Why is the idea of a certificate so hard to understand. Not all of us have been collecting for a hundred years and know every handle, steel type or gaurd matirial by sight, smell or touch.

I have a couple that because the steel type is marked on the knife everything is obvious.



[This message has been edited by Bo (edited 08-27-2000).]
 
Unless a maker uses one steel exclusively, it can be hard to document what was used to make any given knife. It becomes even more important to clearly document what the steel type is on a given knife if you have that same pattern made from different steels. Speaking from personal experience, it would not be the first time that I picked up one knife thinking it was steel type "A" only to discover it was type "B". When you factor in different heat treats for the same steel, it can become even harder to differeniate.

Now, if I mix and match steel types in the same knife pattern, I have one or the other etched or otherwise marked to clearly let everyone know what we have in hand.

With the number of quality knife steels increasing, this issue will only become more confusing over time.

Stay Sharp,
Sid
 
since changing over to the CPM steels, Talonite, and BG42 in the last couple of years....I have gotten a stencil for every single type of steel that I use and mark them all on the opposite side of my logo. 1/8" block letters: BG42/420V/440V/Talonite and 6K (stellite 6K)...just got some 3V so will have to get one for that too.... especially with the exotic steels I feel the buyer should be able to be sure he is getting what he is paying for.

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http://www.mayoknives.com


 
Guys: Well, I'm glad you approve of my stencils! The reasons you cited are why I am labeling most of my knives now-I can't keep track of what's what unless I do-and, I'm only dealing with my knives. I can only imagine what it's like when you own knives from 23 or 30 makers. Same goes for the dealers.,

Honestly, it's a pain-just another step that can add 10+ minutes to each knife. But, it adds value, too.

Stay Sharp,

RJ
 
I use a bit of a compromise. I've used ATS-34 and 154CM for a long time and those blades are not marked. Since I began using A2 and CPM-3V, I mark those blades with an "A" or a "V". My blades are all stamped so nobody is going to add any stamps to them after they are heat treated. Unless requested otherwise, I also use a distinctive color band behind the bolster for each type of steel. ATS-34/154CM is red, A2 is green, CPM-3V is black/gold/black.

As for CPM-3V rusting overnight. Not so! I'm not sure what caused that to happen for you. I've found it to be very rust resistant for a non-stainless steel. Now, A2 rusts!

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Jerry Hossom
www.hossom.com
The Tom & Jerry Show
 
Jerry, no it did not happen. Just tried to say that it was not expected to have as good corrosion resistance as stainless.

How would you rank rust resistance of 3V? Is it approx. the same as D-2 ?

Dew.

P.S. I just heard from Matt your Millennium Black's in the mail. Could hardly wait.
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I believe that marking the steel type on a blade is a very good idea. It removes any question or doubt as to the blade material if or when the original owner decides to trade or sell the knife. I am always interested in the type of blade material being used in a particular knife and find it a bit annoying when a ready answer is not available. Having the blade marked with the type of steel used adds value to the piece IMO and makes me, as a possible buyer, a more informed and secure and willing buyer as well.

 
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