Steel vs Steel - Utility folders as can openers

[Longden]

Most of us have folders that we use for the mundane paper and rope cutting, but I expect a few have been caught in that situation where they needed a knife to open a can of oil (or beans) because nothing else was at hand.

Most utility folders aren't designed (I think) with this in mind. Most of the steel discussions have talked about slicing and push cutting paper, cardboard and rope, but opening a can is something a knife's bound (by its karma no doubt) to be called upon to do.

Excluding the fixed-blade survival knives, and the $200+ specialty survival/combat folders, I wondered how many people have actual experiences in using a sub-$150 utility folder on cans.

I imagine blade geometry and thickness is probably more important than steel type, and that something thin like the Delica would probably lose its point.

Any experiences or opinions?

 

[Cliff Stamp]

I have done this with my Calypso Jr. . The edge will get blunted, but will not fracture. Some steeling and a bit of work on a DMT 8" benchstone has the edge back in minutes. Stronger / harder steels like in the A1 and such are not overly effected.

Going larger, I have chopped up many cans with larger knives, khukuris, bowies and the like with no problems. It generally takes thicker, harder metal to cause any significant blunting.

-Cliff

 

[johno]

I've carried a P38 for almost 25 years and it works better than any knife and even most can openers on knives for opening cans. It was free but they're evidently available for $0.50 or something. Before that I carried a Swiss army knife but the old style can opener was a real finger slicer. For oil cans a screwdriver always worked well, as opening cans with a non-locking folder blade took a bit of care. Using a lockblade I wouldn't worry too much about the blade, instead I'd consider how well the lock, pivot pins and handle would hold up. I guess that the zytel and other synthetic handles with small pivot pins won't take the impact loads that a traditional steel/brass lined handle will when one whacks the knife with the palm, but it's just a guess.

 

[Longden]

Cliff, funny you should mention. I was just playing with my new Calypso Jr Ltwt, thinking about its forte as a "precision slicer" when I wondered about its ability to hold up under a can punching stress, and decided to post. Yours was probably AUS-8, right? I wonder how VG-10 holds up.

Johno: I thought P38s were WW-2 airplanes ... what's yours?

------------------
"Cogito ergo spud"

I think, therefore I yam

 

[johno]

The more common P38 is the can opener that came in pre-MRE rations, which we called C-rations in spite of what they actually were, C-rats for short. It's about 5/8in wide and 1 1/2in long, with a blade that folds out at 90 degrees to the handle.

 

[Waldo]

My Leatherman Wave has 2 one-hand opening knives and a multitude of other tools including a very functional can opener all in one small package. Used it last night around the campfire to open a few as a matter of fact.

 

[Rugger]

Bear with me on this- A large "Oil Can" of Fosters Lager when poured into a glass will produce copious amounts of foam. If you put a hole into the top of the can opposite the hole, it increases airflow & prevents bubbles. (anyone who has used a "church key" please forgive the ramble-) I used a well-worn Spyderco Delica quite often to punch these holes. These cans are not Aluminum & the tip took a beating, but in a jam it works- in fact, I wouldn't carry a knife that wouldn't open a can.

------------------
Runs With Scissors
AKTI# A000107

 

[Ewok]

Oh good, I thought maybe a P38 was a handgun....

 

[Longden]

I had forgotten to exclude multi-tools from the questions, since I was really only interested in knife blades taking a beating.

But now that you mentioned it, my local Costco has the Wave + leather sheath for about $58 ... hmmm.

 

[johno]

Walther P38 .... it'll work but a TPH will make less of a mess :^)

 

[Corduroy]

Re: P38

The four .50's will open up darn near any can. Save the 20mm for light armor.

-Drew

 

[Carl Jacobsen]

Drew,
Yeah, yeah, but why use the nose-mounted guns when something from the bomb racks could make a much more spectacular opening?

"Take off and nuke the beer can from orbit -- it's the only way to be sure."

-- Carl

 

[Frank]

I used a plain edged Spyderco Mariner to open a can of smoked oysters once. It dulled the blade pretty bad. It's easier to just carry a P38 or an SAK.

------------------
Frank
jqsurf@worldnet.att.net

 

[TimmyTheTalkingToilet]

well when I was in boy scouts I used one of the cheepies to just punch through the top to cut the lid off. I figure I should get a good cheapie and re grind it for a sharp point and use that for opening cans.

 

[johno]

a bit of a drift but since some of us don't have both oars in the water anyway .... what's the dumbest way that you've opened a can ? I don't remember shooting a can to open it but I do remember watching someone trying to use a hatchet to open a can of food. They might as well have shot it :^)

 

[Longden]

I dunno... is opening a can with a Wm Henry or a Sebenza dumb? Not that I've done this (or even own them) ... now using someone else's Wm Henry or Sebenza .... that's dumb.

 

[Samurai6]

Shearing through metal food containers is not a particularly stressful thing for a knife blade to do as long as the tip is strong enough to survive the initial puncture. Every blade I have tried worked well at it, including a Boye folder.

Scratches the ship out of a blade though, so I quit doing it. Hardly ever carry cans outside the kitchen anyway.

You guys are all ahead of me. I thought a P38 was an airplane. I still think a P38 is an airplane.

Harv

 

[ryk]

well, after reading this thread i had to try it

i just opened a can of mixed fruit with my benchmade axis-lock(710)

worked exceptionally well, prolly better then the can opener on my leatherman wave(im not kidding)

i just set the point inside the lip on the outer edge of the can, gave the but of the handle a thump with my hand and it went in, and then i just pulled the handle down at an agle towards the can, and it made a nice big, not to messy opening in the can.
i proceeded around the can lid this way, poking the tip through the existing cut, and levering the knife down to cut a little more.

i dont think it mucked up the edge too bad either, but i didnt have it real sharp to begin with.

also, im pretty sure this will remove the black coating, but i didnt have any left on the last 1/2 inch or so of the blade.

i didnt want to try it with my delica, but maybe next time

------------------
AKTI member #A000911

 

[Scarman]

P38 here. Although I do carry a SwissTool for other tasks.

------------------
The greatest thought that has ever entered my mind is that one day I will have to stand before a Holy God and give an account of my life.
*Daniel Webster

Rev 20:12

 

[cerulean]

I agree with most everyone else that opening a can is not really a big deal. Pretty much any knife should be able to handle it unless it's just a complete piece of junk.

While camping a few weeks ago, I had to open a can of beans with very cheap, small plastic-handled folding knife. I was surprised that there was no discernable damage to the blade, pivot, or handle.