Steel Wool?

totallynotalex · Oct 23, 2011

I just got done stripping my bk2 and my usmc kabar and I wanted to polish them a little. All I have is #3 laying around right now. I was wondering is that to coarse? Would it do more "damage" to the blade than good? Thanks in advance for the help guys. And if you have anything else to say about steel wool, I'd be interested in hearing it!

Obsessed with Edges · Oct 23, 2011

I'm not sure steel wool will help much, for polishing a steel knife blade. The steel in the wool is likely softer than the hardened blade. The #000 or #0000 stuff is often recommended for cleaning rust or other dirt/grime/etc from a blade, in large part because it's less likely to damage or scratch a steel blade. And if it can't scratch the blade, I don't think it'll polish much either (without help, like polishing compound at least). If you do still want to give steel wool a try, I'd start with the fine stuff (#0000).

Personally, I'd try some polishing compound first, if the blade is relatively scratch-free. If the blade was stripped by abrasive means, and has scratches on it, I'd use wet/dry sandpaper first, up through 2000 grit or higher. Finish after that with polishing compound.

Ben Dover · Oct 23, 2011

If you have access to a powered buffer, or a bench grinder with felt or tightly sewn muslin wheels, try CrO, BUT DO SO CAREFULLY!. Buffers are quite dangerous if you don't pay close attention to what you're about.

If these are not available to you, 3M wet/dry sandpaper, used wet, on a sanding block in grits progressing from 320 to 500, 1000, 1500, 2000 and 2500 will give you a nice shine. If you prefer a matte finish, stop at 1000.

This abrasive, cut to fit a small sanding block is available in "variety packs" at most automotive supply stores. :thumbup:

Noctis3880 · Oct 23, 2011

If this is just a light polish and not a perfect mirror polish or anything, I would suggest using Mother's Mag & Aluminum Polish with a lot of paper towels and a lot of elbow grease.

Ebbtide · Oct 23, 2011

tutorial

http://beknivessite2.homestead.com/handrubbing.html

Ben Dover · Oct 24, 2011

Ebbtide said:
tutorial

http://beknivessite2.homestead.com/handrubbing.html

That website is excellent, Ebbtide! Thank you for sharting it with the rest of us.

I have access to a Baldor buffer and various compounds, so I no longer need to do the hand work, but if I didn't, I would certainly give this procedure a try. :thumbup:

gooeytek · Oct 24, 2011

Here you go mang, I found Nick's tips very useful:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/892583-hand-sanding-video-a-couple-tips

totallynotalex · Oct 25, 2011

Thanks for all the great info guys I appreciate it! One more question. When I posted this I had sanded down the kabar with some 400 grit, and while it is smooth it has scratches all over it. So my question is if I force a patina on it am I "leaving" the steel open for more rust with all the scratches or is it no big deal?

Obsessed with Edges · Oct 25, 2011

blazerman said:
Thanks for all the great info guys I appreciate it! One more question. When I posted this I had sanded down the kabar with some 400 grit, and while it is smooth it has scratches all over it. So my question is if I force a patina on it am I "leaving" the steel open for more rust with all the scratches or is it no big deal?

Theoretically (and proven in practice), a more polished finish is more resistant to rust, as a rougher finish creates more places for moisture/dirt/etc to embed itself. You might've seen very highly polished surfaces which actually caused moisture to bead up & roll off. That's in large part due to the lack of anything for it to cling to.

If you want, you can follow the 400 grit with 600/800/1000/etc, as high as you wish. Patina can protect the steel somewhat, but all the more so if the surface is finished to a smoother degree.