Steeling Knives??

Ian Allomes

Ian Allomes

Joined
Apr 28, 2003
Messages
1,550
I was taught at an early age by a butcher how to steel a knife, as we all know steels can be bought in a number of grades, some corse some smooth. The one I own is relatively smooth. As I understand it a steel has nothing to do with sharpening a blade only straightening the edge.

I have managed to liven an edge on an 8 gauge fencing wire in cattle yards, probably just as well as with a steel. In a muster it was not unusual to mark six or seven hundred bull calves, each one takes two vertical cuts through hair and hide to perform the operation. This can have a telling effect on a small blade over a day.

My question is why do we use a steel when probably a screw driver can perform the same function.

I realize there is probably an answer to this, I just don’t know it ??.:confused:
 
My understanding is that the steel is harder than the blade so that the blade will give and deform back to straight. Handamerican.com reccomends a smooth or very non aggressive steel so as not to remove material.

Rob
 
Some screwdrivers might work. I'm imagining a screwdriver, and it seems to me that the sides are a bit rough and uneven, with little pits and bumps that wouldn't be good for steeling. Smoothing the shaft would be an extra step, cost $, and be unnecessary for screwing. (yeah, take that last sentence as you will)

I also recall seeing hardening marks on screwdrivers just at the tip, so the shaft probably isn't hard enough to steel on.

Just some guesses.
 
I occasionally use a smooth steel, otherwise a ceramic rod is smooth enough for light daily touch ups:)
 
It’s all very interesting, I was referring to a smooth 8 gauge wire, or a chromium plated screw driver. I know smooth 8 gauge works. We were also always instructed to strop our knifes on our hands after stoning to eliminate the possibility of metal particles becoming imbedded in the scrotum during the operation.

I can just imagine that being a safe working practice these day’s.:D
 
Ordered a sharpening system from HandAmerican couple of days back. Hasnt arrived yet, but it cost about $120 and the guy said it works great for Busse asymmetrical edges. I'll check back with the info in a couple of days.
 
Hard to go wrong with HandAmerican. Getting ready to order another steel from them. Have a 6" that fits very nicely in my sheath pouch. Half smooth, half grooved. Going to get an 11 or 14" for the house as soon as I decide what sandpaper I need also. Good people, good products.

Rob
 
I find that my Sharpmaker works really well on all of my Busse's. Try 4 swipes on the flat side to 1 on the convex side but you have to adjust the angle a little.
 
I love my HandAmerican 12" kit:)

Instead of using the SiC particles I picked up a bar of grinding paste to use on the course leather. The loose compounds just make a mess for me.

Their new sandpaper model looks like the shassizzle IMO:cool:
 
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