Steeling: Yea or Nay?

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pedicabdriver

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Nov 29, 2007
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A few months ago my family renovated our kitchen, and to go along with a new kitchen, I decided to pick up a kitchen knife set. Included in the set was a steel for re-honing. I've never used a steel prior to now, and I'm really amazed at the difference it makes when it comes to how often I have to sharpen.

Even on less than super-steel quality kitchen knives, I'm finding that I'm having to sharpen way less frequently. I'd say sharpening maybe half as often as I used to. Ten to twelve strokes per side with the steel every few days, and I'm good to go.

I've even started started using it on some of my EDCs. Two or three swipes on both sides and it'll bring a fairly sharp edge back to shaving sharp.

Does anyone else use a steel outside the kitchen? Am I making some horrible mistake and ruining the edges of my knifes long-term? Your thoughts/experiences welcome.
 
A smooth steel puts the edge back align, and doesn't remove metal. It is a great tool for prolonging the life of your knife, and also saves you alot of time. As a butcher I used mine about 10 times a day, and only had to sharpen knife about once or twice a week.

At home I use it on my kitchen knives, but not much on my smaller knives. I keep a loaded strop on the counter and use it between sharpenings for my EDC's. If I'm not at home and use my knife, I'll look around for cardboard to strop on after use. Leather belt works a little if you can't find anything else. I'm in a habit of doing it everytime I cut something, even if its just on my jeans.
 
I used a Henckles steel on one of my Kabars a little while ago to give the factory edge a bit more bite. It worked well, but I generally reserve the steel for kitchen knives.
 
A used valve stem works well for a handy pocket steel -- ask around a local machine shop; you can probably get one free. They might even cut off the valve part for you. I use a burnishing rod from Lee Valley Tools (Rockwell around 64) as a steel.
 
I prefer not to use a steel on high alloy blades, as it may weaken the edge. On softer alloys, like 420, it should be fine.

You would probably get the same effect with daily touch ups on a fine ceramic.
 
Steeling is burnishing, it does not align or straighten it actually moves and forms metal into shape. Steeling is also very dependent on pressure and if too much is used it will cause more harm than good.

Best used on lower Rc steels too, keep away from hard alloys as it could damage the edge.

Also, if your EDC is benefited from a steeling then I'd say its time to sharpen them.
 
knifenut1013 said:
Steeling is burnishing, it does not align or straighten it actually moves and forms metal into shape. Steeling is also very dependent on pressure and if too much is used it will cause more harm than good.

Best used on lower Rc steels too, keep away from hard alloys as it could damage the edge.

Also, if your EDC is benefited from a steeling then I'd say its time to sharpen them.
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I wonder where my borosilicate rod falls in that. Since it's more or less glass and has a higher hardness than the steel(and possibly any carbides as well), I'm wondering if it doesn't somewhat hone the edge a little.

I find it helps to straighten the edge after a rough sharpening, but then, so does my hard felt pad(and removes the burr as well).

I suppose it's only desirable when you're on the job and nowhere near your sharpeners.
 
Noctis3880 said:
I wonder where my borosilicate rod falls in that. Since it's more or less glass and has a higher hardness than the steel(and possibly any carbides as well), I'm wondering if it doesn't somewhat hone the edge a little.

I find it helps to straighten the edge after a rough sharpening, but then, so does my hard felt pad(and removes the burr as well).

I suppose it's only desirable when you're on the job and nowhere near your sharpeners.
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Your borosilicate glass rod (when new) is smoother than any steel, and harder than steel, but not harder than some of the embedded carbides in modern steels. I do not think it will hone at all, just burnish like Knifenut said of the smooth steel. It would be interesting to see through a microscope how the carbides interact with your glass "steel."
 
It works fine on VG-10 but it's not appropriate for things like S30V.For softer steel it is ideal.
 
I carry a small pocket steel,(have carried it for almost 20 years) and use it often. I like to keep my edc razor sharp.
 
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