steels and edge holding

Matt Shade

Matt Shade

Joined
Nov 24, 1999
Messages
4,981
I know that heat treat is a major factor in this, but the type of steel makes a big difference too. I'm planning on a making a really heavy duty folder, and I want to use a steel that will really take an edge, and be reasonably tough. D2 is my first thought even though its not a stainless. I'm looking for something that will really cut. How do the new stainless's like BG42 and CPM440V compare? Is there anyhintg else you would suggest?
Thanks alot.

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Fix it right the first time, use Baling Wire !
 
Properly treated, which is very simple, 1095 is as tough a steel as you will ever need. It is also inexpensive, easy to grind and makes a terrific, durable and abrasion resistant blade. People will be falling all over themselves in the next few posts to tell you that it rusts like hell, and how some exotic stainless will be SO much better. If you or your customer want a tough blade that will hold a long lasting SHARP edge and still be easy to sharpen, use 1095 and harden to 55-57. If you still prefer shiny orver sharp, use 440C. You will have to have it treated professionally, but that is the least of the endless compromises to weigh in using stainless for blades. (Hello, from Dublin! I have a piece of 1095 approx. 7" long x 7/8" wide x .o72" which you are welcome to try.)

[This message has been edited by samwereb (edited 03-23-2000).]
 
1095 sounds good, but I may be making one for my brother, and keeping the blade dry and wiped with oil or tough cloth isn't going to be a major priority for him. I have a little ATS34 left that I my use for him instead.I'll see what happens. Thanks alot for the offer though.

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Fix it right the first time, use Baling Wire !
 
from everything i have read and tested... it goes like this, 52100, then 10v, then 420v, 440v, d2, bg42, ats/440c...in that order, with talonite fitting in there in between 420v and 440v (IMHO)....there are some more, i am not familiar with 1095...

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http://www.mayoknives.com


 
I just finished my first cpm 3v blade and it cuts better than any other blade steel that I have used(d-2, 440-c, o-1). Paul Bos did the heat treat and tripled tempered the blade. What I noticed about cpm 3v was thatI could not get it to polish up like the other knife steels that I have used and had to settle for a scotch bright finish.
 
Tom, are you serious?

52100 cuts better than 10V? That really surprises me. I don't know much about it but how does a simple steel like that (1% Carbon, 1% Chromium) out perform the CPM stuff?

BTW how do you think O-1 compares with A-2?
 
guess i better qualify....pounded up right by a master smith....thats what everyone says...its the best. 3v fall far behind a lot of the others in edge holding but is super tough...great camp knife material.

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http://www.mayoknives.com


 
Tom, where did you read that 52100 will outcut or outlast 10V, and who did the heat treat on the 10V? As for forging giving 52100 an inherent advantage, people have forged 10V as well.

-Cliff

[This message has been edited by Cliff Stamp (edited 03-24-2000).]
 
I know very little about 10V...but people that i highly respect in this business have time and time again rated 52100 as the BEST knife steel there is...I have never even seen the stuff....if i am wrong Im sorry, just believing what i am told...
smile.gif


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http://www.mayoknives.com


 
CPM-3V is no slouch when it comes to edge holding. Crucible Steel ranks it above D2 in wear resistance and from what I've seen it does quite well holding an edge. I think it's inherent toughness removes some of the common causes of dulling. Abrasive wear is just one of those.

Ray, it never will polish. Crucible doesn't even score it for polishability. It's the only steel they do that with.

Great steel from my point of view. Not the easiest to work though, but then none of the CPM's are easy.

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Jerry Hossom
www.hossom.com

[This message has been edited by GaKnife (edited 03-24-2000).]
 
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