Stencil help needed badly

G

godogs57

Joined
Apr 16, 2004
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Been making knives for awhile...only recently have I gotten a stencil and associated gadgetry. At first I was so ignorant about the process I did not know that you etch on DC, then darken on AC. My etcher is a second hand model that is variable in the current applied to the blade and it does seem to work OK..I think the problem is with me. In an earlier post I was asking about how to actually pull this etching thing off, as I was having diffuculty even after reading the instructions. I had many suggestions that I was/am very appreciative for.

Basically, most folks told me to etch on DC by placing the stencil on the blade, pad wet (but not "soaked") with etching solution and touch it to the blade for a count of, say three, and then take it off the blade...and do another "three count" for about two more times. The intent was to NOT cook the dern thing by leaving it on there for longer periods of time, but numerous shorter intervals. Then do the darkening on AC using the same series of three or so markings at about 3 seconds each.

Problem: I am getting a smoky haze around my etching after this process that makes the blade look like crap afterwards...really disheartening after all that work on a finished knife. The etcher is, like I said, a variable intensity (or whatever you want to call it) model and I turned it back to about 60% of full power and it still "smokes it up". Thought that might help, but it does not. I used to put a drop of etching fluid on the blade before laying the stencil on top of it...not a good idea either. Now etching on a dry stencil with the damp pad...no better. I have no idea whether I am smoking things up on the etching part or the darkening part, but I about to pull my hair out on this one. To get the haze off the blade, I have to polish ever so lightly with a non abrasive polish and the dang stuff takes off the darkened image, leaving a clear outline of the etched image...looks like crap. And, yes, I am using the proper etching fluid for stainless steel on my 440 and 36 blades.

What am I doing wrong? I am experimenting but just can't find the right combination of intensity and number of strikes...any help is appreciated!
Thanks and happy holidays.
 
I wet my handpad, then dab it on a folded dry paper towel till it barely makes a damp mark, then I etch with it.

Make sure you dab the handpad to your stencil about 20 times, when etching, then go to AC, and do it about 10-12. That may give you a deeper etch. The 60% power is fine



The cloudy issue is normal, to an extent, and if you handrubbed your blades it would be a simple matter to clean that up, and make your etch clean, and crisp.

Buffing however creates different problems, as you now know.

Try using a harder buff. It might not reach all the way into your etch.

Buff it to get the cloudiness out, then color in the stencil mark with permanent black Sharpie. After it dries, take a sharpened piece of micarta, and carefully scrape away the excess. It works great, and will leave a very black logo.:eek:


Edited to add; Don't wet your stencil with fluid of any kind before etching. Moisture conducts electricity, and wherever your stencil/blade is wet underneath the stencil, it will get cloudy.
It defeats the whole purpose of tamping your wet pad on a paper towel to get excess moisture out.
 
Godogs, where did you get your stencils from? Some (IMG, TUSTech)are much more "transparent" than others, and you can drop the voltage down even farther than 60%. When I tested them, I dropped my Marking Methods unit all the way down to "2" of "5", or 40%.

You might try quite a few more than 3 or so strikes, like Mike said. It isn't at all uncommon for me to use 20 or more, too. Then blacken. This allows a bit more depth so you don't scrub the black out when cleaning off the haze. Non-abrasive cleaners like Flitz probably dissolves it, though, as it has chemicals in to remove oxides, which is what the black is.

You're not really doing anything wrong. The haze is a common occurence.
 
Sounds like the pad is to wet.
I blot mine on a paper towel several times before using it on the stencil.
There is a very fine line between to dry and to wet. To wet leaves a smoky haze. To dry leaves a spotty etch.
If you can see fluid spreadig out under your stencil your to wet and will get haze.
I"m going to try putting scotch removable tape around the area to be stenciled so the edges of the stencil are on tape. If you apply power to many times and are a little wet the edge of the stencil will etch a mark into the steel.
I tape my stencil down so it won't move to avoid a double etch.
Try it first on a piece of scrap. Saves alot of trouble.
About $.05 worth
TJ
 
Sure do appreicate your kind help in all this stencil mess...sounds like I need to ensure that the pad is even drier than what I originally thought it should be. I got my stencils from Patricia...oh whats her last name? She was highly recommended on this forum, and rightly so...she was a huge help in setting the artwork up...Gosh, can't think of her last name. Still have their invoices, etc...so I can order some more when the time comes.

Y'all have a great Christmas. Will let you know how it goes from here on out.
 
Had the occasion to stencil a knife I sold yesterday...after reading all the tips I went back and 1) cleaned my stencil of all etching solution, 2) taped it in place on top of a clean blade, 3) dampned (not soaked) the pad and then blotted it almost dry. This is something I had not done until now.

Perfect mark!

Thanks again for all the tips.

Have a great holiday season,

Hank Hammond
 
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