There are so many factors that affect an adhesive's bond that I'm always wary of claims about any 'new' adhesives.
Epoxy is about the best GP adhesive I've run across because you can buy different formulations and customize it for different application with binders and fillers. Even still, it doesn't work on soft, waxy plastics: polyethylene, polypro, etc. There are other limitations as well of course. Check out the Gougeon Brothers (West System) website for everything you ever wanted to know about epoxy. Their magazine, Epoxyworks, is full of useful tips and new technology/techniques too.
CA(SuperGlue) isn't a great bond at the best of times, speaking in terms of the contact area required for a strong bond, unless you're gluing a compatible plastic with a solvent bond (polystyrene IIRC). It's good for gluing a really porous material that allows the glue to sink into both pieces deeply for a purely mechanical bond (on really soft woods like balsa and basswood it's pretty good but hard to sand)
I had a look at the glue you
mentioned. This is a standard CA that's been formulated a little thicker with a longer set up and the end retailer puts their own label on it. If you have a model or craft store in your neighbourhood, you can get it there. The bottle will be inside a large brown pill bottle. There are usually thin/fast(instant), medium(~5-10 seconds) and thick/slow (30 secs) The slow is also used in modelling as a gap filler. I definitely wouldn't use CA for gluing scales on, or for any application where one side is metal or stone, because the lack of pores will cause a weak bond. They also have a shelf life once opened.
In the knives I've done so far, I haven't run across a situation where CA would be a better adhesive than epoxy.